Anti Static Control - router, dust hose, etc

CNC Machines Shapeoko
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Excellent!

We have a couple of similar things at: https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Cable_Management — yours evokes

https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Teeter_Scissors

and this problem is a familiar one to folks, so at least one person just got an iron cord holder: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/shapeoko/cJMQ_keO1eo

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I’m happy to report I am still disconnect-free for several months since I ran a ground wire from the DW611 body to a grounded outlet. I say try that first.

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All, thanks for the helpful replies especially with pictures. To be clear, I think my problems are strictly from an ESD perspective and not an EMI one. I don’t think we can consider those the same.

@WillAdams, great idea about a separate surge protector. My current E-stop is a proper “big red” button style, but it is essentially wired like a simple light switch circuit, but instead of the light, the switch controls power to a standard single gang outlet. The machine and router are plugged into those outlets so the E-stop controls both. Putting surge protectors in that loop may help.

@HAL9000 and @Griff, yes I think getting a proper ground for my router is the first step as well. That’s in the works. I understand @HAL9000, how you grounded your Axes, but how are they connected from Z-axis to router?

@Lewscrew, to answer your questions: I have a standard SO3, newer power supply (I think, purchased my machine this summer?), 2.4d controller. For dust collection, I have a Rigid vac, and I hope santa brings me a dust deputy. I was using a Suckit Dust boot, but recently removed it. The design works well for the Dewalt Router, but I have the Makita, and it sucks because you have limited ways to position the router before it binds up and you lose Z-axis travel room. this is due to the relatively square shape of the top of the Makita, rather than the round Dewalt. I’m using an old desktop, but I haven’t seen any indications of USB power or EMI problems.

@mecas, I love your setup. Something to consider, but I’m not sure I’m having any EMI problems. I definitely have ESD problems.

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Ok those hinge strips are brilliant

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Sorry for asking but, Is it EMI produced by ESD?.

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I don’t believe so. Early on, I learned that I could inadvertently cause an issue by vacuuming by hand while the machine was running. Get too close after a few minutes of vacuuming, and the discharge from the vacuum hose or nozzle, or me, to any of the aluminum rails or the router, would cause an immediate disconnect. Attaching the vacuum through a dust boot like the Suckit has the same effect. I recently gave myself the strongest static shock I’ve ever felt simply by brushing up against the extrusion while the machine was running. I would think EMI would be more sporadic in appearance and difficult to note what happened. For reference, we also have issues here when we get out of our cars. I’ve learned to get out and shut my car door with my clothed forearm instead of my bare hand. The static discharge can be fairly severe. Maybe I’m just a super conducting mutant and don’t know it yet.

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The kind of electrical discharge you are talking should be enough to damage the board or/and the computer. I believe the disconnection happens thru EMI caused by ESD otherwise the board should be fried long time ago.

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Yeah you are probably right about that. I definitely think giving that ESD a place to go to ground other than through the board is the way to go.

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  1. Easy. Larger number is bigger wire. Mine’s 16 ga, works great. I used this one. It’s kind of a pain to do, there just isn’t a lot of room in the router housing. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SA09Z6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  2. Expensive. The wire method really doesn’t work that well. A good anti-static hose is graphite impregnated so the whole thing is moderately conductive. All the ESD problems I’ve had (this is me, not speaking for others) I can directly attribute to touching the machine with a running vacuum. Letting it run without the vac has never been a problem for me in that regard. It’s a massive mess, but no ESD induced issues. :slight_smile:
  3. Lots of comments here from others already.
  4. I initially did this with a roll of copper braid I had laying around. It moves really well as the tool moves, and doesn’t fatigue as fast. I used this:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BIBQD2S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    It’s easier to deal with if you put terminals on the end of it, then it can be attached to a convenient screw. That said, I didn’t really see a difference and eventually took it off because it was in my way.
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In had some disconnects due to what I believe was static. I made an earth plug and connected the wire to the top bolt of one of the z axis springs. I have not had a single bit of trouble since that. My belief is that you don’t need to go to the Nth degree to ensure the ground has absolute continuity throughout the chassis because all the static is generated around the z plate (vac and router) and static loves to find the least path of resistance to ground. Just my 2 cents and it seems to work so far.

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I have the end-all, be-all solution to all your problems. Put 1uF caps (blue caps in the picture) across the power and ground pins of the ISP headers for both chips. This adds more bypass protection than what comes on the board and keeps the chips from glitching when noise comes across the lines.

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Router body is metal and grounds Z axis through mount.

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Thanks all for the help. I made a separate thread for putting a grounding cord on the Makita router, as that was step 1. Will see if that makes a difference, and work on incrementally attacking the problem.

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My machine would freeze if I turned off a fan in the other room!:astonished: I live in an old apartment building with no separate ground and with every outlet on the same circuit. I tried putting a 2200uF cap on the power input to the board, but it didn’t help. I think it was too big to respond to the fast transients. Anyways, putting the additional bypass capacitors right at the chips was the only thing that has worked. It’s been over a year now with no glitching!

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  1. Larger gauge number is smaller wire diameter.
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You’re absolutely correct! How I messed that up…

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I thought that too.

I ran solid copper wires through my vacuum hoses, connected to ground. Still got disconnects.

Then I ran a solid copper wire from my 611 to ground. No more disconnects.

The wire in the vac hose was causing clogs, annoying. I took it out. Still, no more disconnects. Some jobs I can’t use a dust shoe so I manually vac periodically. Hair stands up on my arms and head, touch the x,y,z axes with the vac hose, NO disconnects. For me, empirical proof the separate ground on the router is the answer to static-induced disconnects.

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My gremlins popped up again, but not as often as before. I just added your mod and haven’t had a problem in days. Thanks!

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That’s awesome! I hope this is the end of your woes as it has been the end of mine. Cut on.

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I immediately started having issues once upgrading to a larger JET dust collection unit where I was losing connection to the machine controller mid program. I followed the recommendation of @HAL9000 and replaced the factory Dewalt power cord by using the instructions he provided except I used 14 gauge 3 wire SJEOOW cord and a 3 prong plug which is overkill but it’s what I had in the shop. At the same time, I stripped off some of reinforcement wire on the flexible pvc dust collection hose and grounded it to the dust collector frame. Ever since these two changes, I’ve not had any issues with the connection dropping off.