Broken Limit Switch


(Dan) #1

Has any one ever had one of their limit switches from Carbide 3D break? I did the XXL upgrade last week and installed the limit/homing switches (after having to adapt it to my Ver1 end plates). Everything worked great for three or four jobs, and now the Z axis limit switch doesn’t work. I took it off, and the “button” is broken off inside the little cover. It never was bumped or slammed into in those jobs, just used for homing and a couple of pauses.

Where can I order new switches (without the wiring) so I can keep a few on hand if this happens again?

And, yes, I will be contacting carbide 3d support, but I am still waiting to hear back from them on two other non related issues, and still waiting on the replacement motor extension that was DOA that was shipped Fedex Ground…


(Bill Johnes) #2

Just did a quick search. Searched “micro limit switches”. Most have the levers on them that could be cut off. I’m sure with further searching you could find the correct one.


(William Adams) #3

The community maintains a list of parts and other notes on the machine: http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Home/Limit_Switches#Shapeoko_3

which lists these as:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/D2QW-C003H/SW1221-ND/2698560

as noted at:

But if you’re still under warranty, no need to purchase them — contact support@carbide3d.com and we’ll send you some.


(mikep) #4

The limit switches are kind of fragile. They seem to also have some sort of manufacturing gunk in them that requires them to be clicked a few times before the contacts wipe enough off to start working well.


(Dan) #5

Thanks for the help Will! I don’t know how I missed that post with the link to them.

I found a spare that I had for my 3D Printer and am using that for now, but the mounting holes don’t line up, so its just Zip-Tied on for now.


(Scott Dickason) #6

I’ve lost two Z axis switches in about 8 months. No issues with the axis’. At some point I’m going buy 3 or 4 and keep a few spares on hand.


(greg) #7

Does the carbide limit switches have a probing capability, I have a S3 purchased prior to them coming with the switches, I like to know wich are better carbides our Andrews? any Idea’s?


(Richard Cournoyer) #8

Probing and Limit Switches are TWO different things. There is a set of pins on you GRBL board called Probe . Connect a wire to each pin that, BAM, you have a probe. It’s really that easy.

This is an old ver board, but they are all very similar (regarding the Probe pins)


(Stephen Houser) #9

I know this is an old topic, but these are the worst limit switches ever. It seems if I don’t use my machine for a month or two they break right off when I fire it up – yes they have literally broken during a homing process. I’ve gone through several, all on the Z Axis, over the two years I’ve had the machine and I treat them very gently. Add to that they are $6+ a pop, plus shipping.

[by “break right off” I mean “right when I start a job”, not as in “off” the machine]


(Luke) #10

A limit switch is pretty basic, and usually repeatable thousands of times. When you say break right off do you mean electronic failure?


(William Adams) #11

Please see http://docs.carbide3d.com/software-faq/home-switch-troubleshooting/

If that doesn’t help, contact support@carbide3d.com and we’ll try to work out what’s causing this — it’s not a common problem/occurrence.


(Stephen Houser) #12

Yes, I agree, it’s a switch and should not be that complicated or fragile. Electronic failure, as in the switch is stuck on. It seems to happen after the machine is not used for a few weeks. I had supposed it had gotten gummed up with small particles and during previous failures and I had tried fiddling with the switch for a few minutes (which according to the s.o. was actually hours) to see if I could un-stick it to no avail.

Yesterday, the events leading to my frustration, I was able to home the machine, start a job, stop it (to change feed rate). Then when I restarted to home it again, poop.

I checked my order history (thank you amazon) and this is the third z-limit switch this has happened to. I was willing to accept one as my fault, one as a bad part, but at three, I’m suspicious.

I checked the troubleshooting guide and believe I’ve got (well not at the moment) the switch installed correctly.

I’m now playing the waiting game for the replacement from mouser to arrive. I ordered five. Hoping perhaps their quality is somehow different from the ones I got on Amazon.


(Luke) #13

You could move to electronic - non touch switches like I did?


(Stephen Houser) #14

Reed switches or hall-effect switches? Link?


(Luke) #15

(Stephen Houser) #16

Excellent, thank you!

As the machine is in repair-state, I have more time for “research” and something like this might be just the ticket.


(Steve Pisac) #17

well i have had the same problem with shapeoko limit switches. they are very fragile. not happy, I’ll have to try to find some maybe on Amazon where i won’t have to a long time to get it. Any body have a good Amazon link for a switch?
Thanks


(Luke) #18

@stephenhouser @CNCME

These might help you both:

https://www.beavercnc.co.uk/product-page/beavercnc-precision-limit-switch-kit-for-shapeoko-3

Non contact prox switches, they won’t break ever.


(Steve Pisac) #19

Thanks for the tip on the switches!


(mikep) #20

Carbide is pretty good about getting these out quick.