Getting high on super glue


(Luke) #1

Hi guys

I’m doing a big job on a largish sheet of aluminium (50x50cm), I’m uing the tried and tested superglue and tape method which is great.

Spreading that much glue over such an large area I was getting a bit :upside_down_face: loosygoosy. The parts I’m cutting out are quite small 3x5cm or so and there are lots of them.

Are there any better methods of hold down that I might not be considering. It’s a good 10 min after my glue up and I’m still in a strange place :joy:

Luke


(Stuart) #2

For big sheets of smaller parts I put several through holes into the design thar don’t interfere with the parts. These are drilled first. I hold she sheet down with normal clamps on the edges, drill these holes, then screw the aluminium/ material down to my wasteboard with tapping screws or bolts into my t slot. I then continue the job.

If the parts have holes or through pockets these can also be used, just put their operations first in the jobthen oause to screw down the material.

Doesn’t work on all jobs, but is an option


(mikep) #3

3M Super77. Put down the tape, then hit it with Super77. You might want to mask areas outside the tape (hint, hint). Then shoot the aluminum, wait 5 minutes or so and stick it down. If you have a j-roller, roll it over the sheet to get good contact, otherwise, spend a few minutes rubbing it down with a rag.

When it comes time to take it up, it will be more difficult than with super glue, but a little acetone will clean it off the aluminum parts. It’s not brittle like super glue, so you may find yourself pulling up the tape to get things off the board rather than popping them off and then pulling up the tape.

I just spent a few days with this method when super glue kept failing on some acrylic and aluminum sheet parts. It’s more hassle, but a lot more secure.


#4

Warning: beware the odor of Super77 and follow the instructions carefully, or you will not have great results. VENTILATE WELL.

Also, practice spraying on a test piece first. There are several can and nozzle designs, and some of them are harder to get uniform (rather than spotty/clumpy) coverage with. I think that it was a design change and there is still older stock in the wild, but it may be a supplier/manufacturing plant thing.

Also, the solvent can craze or damage some materials. Aluminum is fine, but some plastics and composites need testing prior to use.

The best part of Super77 is that it can be used to wet bond, allowing a little adjustment, single surface tack bond (wait 5 min), or similarly to a conventional contact cement (wet both surfaces and wait for tack). Wet bonding itn’t suitable it one (preferably both) surface isn’t porous enough to let the volatiles out.


(mark robinson) #5

Hot glue gun…lmao @ loosygoosy


(Griff Carpenter) #6

You might consider using less glue. A single stripe down the middle of 2” wide strip of tape is sufficient. No need to spread.

I lay out the tape to ensure each part has at least 50% of its area backed by tape then put the lines of glue down then the stock to be cut. Then, the secret to not spreading the glue, slide the stock slightly from side to side andweigh the piece down with some heavy bricks. Let sit for 5 minutes or so.

On a 20” square of 1/4” aluminum, after tape is placed, it takes less then a minute to apply SG and weights. Minimum exposure to fumes.


(Luke) #7

I’m not sure that will work for my scenario…


(Craig) #8

A vacuum table would be ideal for your small parts. You could also rip the sheet down on your table saw to smaller sections and use the Super Glue and tape method. Double sided tape or hot glue would probably not work well due to the heat generated from cutting the aluminum.


(Griff Carpenter) #9

Hmmm, 6 strips tape down Y, 1 strip tape across X at the bottom. 7 lines of glue, done!


(mikep) #10

Given we’re talking about aluminum here, the solvents weren’t much of an issue. For the record, if you leave the paper on acrylic sheets, Super77 is fine.


(Adam X) #11

I’d screw the sheet at the corners, drill the holes in your parts, then put some screws through the parts to the table, then run the cutout operation.


(mark robinson) #12

Grab one of these and go to town on it https://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=lp_2257619011_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1531500696&sr=8-3


(Carl Hilinski) #13

You could, of course, ask the hookah-smoking caterpillar you see sitting on your S03 to hold the pieces down for you…


(Dan Nelson) #14

3M Scotch Super77 is pretty tough stuff. I agree with everything @mikep said with the additional warning of anything that “could” get overspray “will” get overspray and stay sticky for days/months/years. Mike mentions masking (hint, hint), and I double that advice. Oh and don’t accidentally lean your arms on any coated piece (especially if you are hairy at all), this stuff is like alien snot, you WILL regret bodily contact. If you’re wondering where this advice comes from, we’ll just call it (horrific) “experience”.

Dan


(Jose Prieto) #15

I use the blue ribbon and the crazy glue one but I put everything on a polycarbonate sheet which I fixed with screws to the wasteboard. This gives me the ease of removing the blue ribbon.


(system) #16

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