How to fix anything as Im getting started

I had a bump issue myself but was due to wheels being to tight. It was just one in particular the rear left wheel on the X extrusion plate.

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Iā€™ve found that using a downcut bit has been invaluable to me for signage Iā€™e done. It gives a clean top edge. I use it for the first 1mm then switch to a normal bit if itā€™s too deepā€¦otherwise if its not too deep, i just stay with the downcut bit. Iā€™ve done MDF and hardwood lettering.

Hi Scott,

Im doing the mdf and hardwood lettering. Will you please your experiences? Like what bits to use, etc.

Thank you!

Jake

Good morning guys! Just want to drop by and say hello and keep this thread active.

Hey guys! Im wondering if bit 101 is good for cutting wooden letters?

Yes, one can use pretty much any endmill to cut letterforms ā€” itā€™s just a matter of selecting an endmill which matches the size and shape of the letters and the way in which you wish to cut them.

Usually the problem is the radius of the endmill and the inability to get into tight corners, esp. on serif fonts ā€” usually V carving works better, see: http://docs.carbide3d.com/assembly/carbidecreate/video-tutorials/#v-carving

For more general information on endmills see: http://docs.carbide3d.com/support/#tooling-support

Thanks Will! Ill order few packs now.

Note that for a #101 youā€™ll need a 1/8" endmill.

Love that overhang for dovetails and true box joints too

This tutorial includes cutting out letters:

https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Child_Name_or_Letter_Board

a little late to the party here, but the company I work for specializes in acrylic, mainly .220 and under thickness. We have 4 large Morbidelli Routers that run around the clock, and one of the best small router bits Iā€™ve found for acrylic with a straight edge is a Vortex Tool Company part# 5621. I havenā€™t had the chance to try one on my Shapeoko yet, but i know its a quality bit that would last most people forever. We normally have to change them every 240-300 hours of use.

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Just looked at the Vortex single flute bits and for the price versus how many hours youā€™re getting out of one theyā€™re actually pretty cheap. $30 something bucks for 240-300 hours worth of cutting is pretty awesome! They say they work well on aluminum too. Might give some of these a shot, thanks for the heads up!

Dan

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youā€™ll have to play with the feeds and speed a little, but once you get that down pat, they will last a long time. All we use is Vortex(at work), but we also have a bunch of custom grind solid carbide bits they do for us. As far as what Iā€™m doing at home, iā€™m thoroughly impressed with the quality of the bits from carbide3d on wood so far. Iā€™ll continue to use them.

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