I wanna use t-track for my so3 xxl but


(Robert Mark Etherton Jr) #1

im not very good at create atm and would love just to have the file for a t-track so all I gotta do is test and go for it. if anyone has a file for that id sure appreciate it.


(Temujin Kuechle) #2

There is a kit that Carbide 3D sells on their website store.
It looks like a good solution.


(Robert Mark Etherton Jr) #3

Yeah I saw that but I already bought rocker t-track and I really wanted to use them :confused:


(William Adams) #4

Not quite sure what you’re asking for — I wrote up my own initial setup at: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=8332&p=65068#p65068

For the Carbide 3D kit we do have files at: http://docs.carbide3d.com/assembly/t-tracks/#resources which might be what you want?


(Robert Mark Etherton Jr) #5

well what I want is to have the machine to go and crave out a path for t-tracks to be put in there but I can’t find any files of anyone whose done this, everyone had done those threaded holes


(Nathan Woodruff) #6

As stated in Will’s link above; "The filler strips are designed to be replaced.

If you have a table saw, or a circular saw with a straight edge, you can easily make your own replacements.

The material is 3/4” MDF, but we have also found 3/4” Baltic birch, or other high grade plywood to work well."
http://docs.carbide3d.com/assembly/t-tracks/files/xxlfs.zip

NOTE: the strips are too ling to create on the CNC, also CC will not allow you to drill holes


(Ben Vincent) #7

I finished my XL install last night. The tracks are screwed in. The MDF is attached with a glue gun, strong enough to stay put but I can pop them off when they needed replacing. I plan to run a surfacing job this weekend.


(Stephen Gullage) #8

For a t-track wasteboard, you don’t want to carve out the space for the tracks. I think you’re envisioning a solid piece of MDF with channels cut in it to lay the track level with the top of the wasteboard. That would not work well for you, because every time you want to level your wasteboard, you’ll have to remove the track to avoid cutting in to it, level the wasteboard, then cut your channels just a little bit deeper to put the tracks in level with the wasteboard again. Or if you’re cutting a project out and go just a little bit deep, you’re going to mess up all that nice t-track you bought.

Instead, what you do is cut strips of MDF, lay out one along the edge, attach the track along side of it, but it’ll be lower than the MDF top. Then another strip of MDF, another track, and so on until your wasteboard is complete. Then you can level your wasteboard without hitting your track. Your clamps would be long enough to reach down the 3/8" to the track. For example:

For more clarification about this, just take a look at the installation instructions for the t-track that C3D sells. Easy enough to get MDF to pair with the tracks you already own and follow along with their instructions.


(Jesse Glessner) #9

No help on a file, however, if you still have not purchased your “T-track” try browsing for the company “Orange Aluminum”, which is probably still the cheapest source for that.


(Chris) #10

Thanks JayGee. I just ordered 6 48" T tracks. Great price compared to others I have been looking at.


(Gary) #11

Here’s what I did

My t-tracks are mounted to the origional waste board. I slotted the edges of the new board pieces to fit over the edges of the t-track then I put end caps on that lock the strips in place. So far this has worked great for me.


(Ben Vincent) #12

Oh that’s really sweet! How do you level it?

I kept my MDF boards inside the cutting area so I can surface it.


(Gary) #13

I actually have a second waste board over it. I have different sizes boards for different projects and I skim those with a 1" Whiteside CNC spoilboard surfacing bit. I can use my “oops” and my homemade clamps over them or my secret weapon. A pin nailer. I’ve never had a project slip with it and on the couple of times I hit a pin with a bit it shears them off with no visible damage to the bit.


(Ben Vincent) #14

Interesting, some useful tips! Thanks!


(Gary) #15

This is how I roll. LMAO


(Ben Vincent) #16

I’m getting there!


(Gary) #17

Nice setup. But a little to low for my back I think.

Mine before the Beaver HDZ, 2 2 KW 4 bearing spindle and drag chain/ custom wire harness through the frame.


(Chris) #18

My shins hurt loking at all those open drawers. :joy:


(Gary) #19

They are only open for show. I’ve learned a long time ago to only open one drawer at a time on my tool chest lest it try and jump on top of you as it spills its guts out on the floor.


(mikep) #20

Brand and model of the cabinets? Like them?