Inkscape and halftone help

(Pete) #21

Thanks for the help guys! I will give this a shot when I get home tonight. I am just using a cheap 90° bit from a router bit starter pack. I had a nice 60° whiteside cutter but dropped that on the concrete and broke the tip off :frowning: If this works well I will be ordering some more 60° cutters.

(Shawn Swan) #22

Thanks everyone for your help!!! It’s going to be warm here this weekend so I plan on playing around in the garage to see if I can get this to work.

(Kyle) #23

One last tip. Depending on the size of the holes you selected, I think I did .1 in as max, you have to make sure your base is completely level and doesn’t sag. The littlest difference will case the hole sizes to differ and distort the image.

(Pete) #24

Did you by any chance increase the feed rates from the default setting of 50ipm? Seems like it could possibly take quite a while to run one of these and I would be looking for the best ways to speed it up.

On a side note, does anyone know how fast the maximum travel is on the shapeoko 3?

(Kyle) #25

Oh yeah I think I doubled it.

(Kyle) #26

Also what I did was in the tap file so “find and replace” under edit in windows notebook and for the find out z0 and leave the replace empty.

The program drops the bit in z axis every step even if there is no hole to be made. This will remove the needless z movement and only drop the z axis where a hole needs to be.

(Pete) #27

I had mild success with this this weekend. Nothing worthy enough to share, but I am getting closer to where I want it to be. Having a very level surface seems to be extremely critical. As stated above, slight variations in the stock can cause a lot of distortion in the final image.

(William Adams) #28

You might want to consider using a touch probe — Carbide 3D has one in development, and there’s support for one on bCNC (as well as other apps).

(Shawn Swan) #29

I tested it on the weekend and I GOT IT TO WORK!!! Erasing the first line of code and saving it as a .tap file did it.The test I did was small (6"x6") and you have to stand pretty far back to make out the image. I plan on doing some bigger images over the next couple of weeks. Thanks to everyone for your help!

(Jerry Gray) #30

I ran a feed of 133 IPM. It took 4 hrs.!
It never gets to go that fast cause there’s so many plunges.
Do like Jason says and start with a small photo with lots of color, and use a 90Deg. bit.
I used a 60. Bad move.
The file, yeah youll have to add the G20 at the beginning. As Will said inches to mm makes it tiny.
If it was the other way around, well it wouldnt fit :slight_smile:
I found reactor much easier to use.

(Jerry Gray) #31

about 200 IPM…
I think you can see it during rapid positioning.
I think I hit rapid pos., then changed screens while it was moving.
Also A G0 command in the MDI, or check your settings.