Stainless Steel 316L

CNC Machines Nomad
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eek … $$$PEEK$$$ lol

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Hey at least I didn’t suggest $$$$TORLON$$$$$. :grimacing: Where I work we have a customer who specifies gold-plated Torlon for a certain component. PEEK isn’t that bad, all things considered.

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Ok, So I’m thinking I am stuck with Stainless steel 316L for now. I don’t think I can sell the wife on Titanium yet and everything else talked about doesn’t fit with our brand. I have the opportunity to maybe get a Smithy 1240 CNC Mill. Would the general public here recommend that, or a High end Sherline 6200/6210 combo for the SS 316L?

I’m just looking for the best fit for cutting the 316L. If I need to take smaller cuts that’s fine, I just need something that will not break or wear out to fast.

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I sold my CNC Sherline mill ( http://www.prototrains.com/shermill/shermill.html ) when I realized I was doing more work tweaking it than making things with it. People are obviously doing good work with Sherlines, but they do take fiddling with if you want to do high-accuracy CNC work with them. The Smithy I don’t have any knowledge of. I am impressed with the Nomad, which has linear bearings and inherently non-backlash belt drive on the axes. The belts do have some compliance (i.e. they stretch a miniscule amount with load) but in use I’ve discovered that the belt flex isn’t really a factor given the light cuts needed to not bog down the spindle. that’s not a criticism at all, but to me points out the Nomad’s well-balanced design.

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So in your opinion If I were to use the Nomad for my SS 316L cuts and If I took it in small cuts can it handle the load? If I sent you a rod of Stainless steel that I’m thinking of using would you be willing to give it a try and see if it will work out? Maybe give a sort of review? I’m ready to drop the money on this (Boss / Wife approval), I just want to make sure its going to work for what I need it to.

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I honestly don’t think you’re going to do anything to 316L with the Nomad except burnish and work harden the metal and probably break end mills. I cut about 60 small parts out of 6061 aluminum on my Nomad and that was really pushing the limits of the machine. Carbide3D has always said wood, plastic and non-ferrous metal. You just don’t have the torque or rigidity for anything else.

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@smartboy00, I’d suggest contacting @ApolloCrowe and asking if he’s tried any 316L during the Nomad testing. He could probably give an opinion before you spend money on materials. I’m happy to try some test cutting but a sanity check first never hurts. And Apollo probably has more cutting time than all of us put together at this point, judging from his posts…

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@smartboy00, if you go to http://www.mcmaster.com and search “Prodec 316” they list it as

Also known as Prodec, this 316/316L stainless steel can be machined faster with less wear on cutting tools than standard 316. It also offers better weldability because of its low carbon content.

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Lets entertain this challenge, I have a couple questions to help you move in a direction.

  1. Design files, how do you plan on creating designs to send to a CNC machine?
    If you have a file to share, we can go through a work flow.
    I think one of the biggest benefits of the Nomad is the software and hardware integration.

  2. Work area, are you prepared to cut steel?
    Coolant is definitely needed.

  3. How many parts do you plan to make per month?
    The Nomad isnt a production machine, the value of having a Nomad is being able to develop and refine an idea, and then sending your files to a production shop that can make the parts quickly in large quantities. the Nomad lets you scale up by proving the concept or design without spending money on outsourced development.

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Apollo can the nomad do any production run? Like mold making for small shops from wax or brass. I ask becausethat’s one of the things I would need to do with mine

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I’ve done plenty of small production runs of wooden tethers and rattles. It’s fully capable in my opinion. The only limitations are size of stock and speed with which the machine can cut.

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What is machinable ceramic? What’s it made of?

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Wow. Looks like you did a lot of work on that Sherline mill. :slight_smile: I have a Sherline 5400, just like that one. I have to say that I’m very happy with it, but do some similar reservations with it. It’s a light-duty machine, very precise and accurate, and great for learning manual machining at a reasonable cost. All of their accessories are basically scaled down traditional Bridgeport-style tooling and fixturing. Not a bad thing at all. Also it’s DC motor is decent, especially at the low-range to cut harder materials like steel. (The motor is more adept with their micro lathe, rather than the mill though.)

But the mill isn’t made for CNC. The lead screws always have about 0.001-0.003" of backlash and the aluminum ways can wear quickly with constant CNC tool paths, if you’re not diligent with oiling everything all of the time. With traditional gibs, you have to frequently check them to make sure they are tight and don’t have any play, because they also wear quickly.

I agree though with your assessment. The linear bearings and timing belt drives that the Nomad uses is the way to go with modern-day light-duty CNCing. No backlash. Virtually no wear. And still very accurate.

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Macor is actually a composite material of ceramic and glass https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macor has a list of the ingredients.

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Thanks Darren. I will need it too

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So… whatever happened? Did anyone try milling the 316L?

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I ask because I’m contemplating a project that involves use of somewhat small dual thread lead screws (for making a very small self centering clamp). The most obvious source for the screws and nuts is to cannibalize a wood clamp like this one:

I would need to machine the cylindrical nuts to rectangular cuboids, hence my question.

Btw, I’m open to other sources and suggestions if anybody has any. Thanks as always.

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My inclination there would be to just machine a fixture (and maybe a matching jig) which would hold the part in question and allow me to file it to size/shape by hand.

I doubt though, that the part in question is a particularly tough steel alloy, even if you get a real Jorgensen clamp, belike it’d cut okay just using the steel settings on a Nomad or Shapeoko.

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Heres a link to the Sample parts I have cut in Stainless Steel, Titanium, and Brass:

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Thanks guys–when I get chance, I’ll try unleashing my Nomad on the steel and we’ll see how it goes.