Stainless Steel 316L

(Sonny Jeon) #21

Wow. Looks like you did a lot of work on that Sherline mill. :slight_smile: I have a Sherline 5400, just like that one. I have to say that I’m very happy with it, but do some similar reservations with it. It’s a light-duty machine, very precise and accurate, and great for learning manual machining at a reasonable cost. All of their accessories are basically scaled down traditional Bridgeport-style tooling and fixturing. Not a bad thing at all. Also it’s DC motor is decent, especially at the low-range to cut harder materials like steel. (The motor is more adept with their micro lathe, rather than the mill though.)

But the mill isn’t made for CNC. The lead screws always have about 0.001-0.003" of backlash and the aluminum ways can wear quickly with constant CNC tool paths, if you’re not diligent with oiling everything all of the time. With traditional gibs, you have to frequently check them to make sure they are tight and don’t have any play, because they also wear quickly.

I agree though with your assessment. The linear bearings and timing belt drives that the Nomad uses is the way to go with modern-day light-duty CNCing. No backlash. Virtually no wear. And still very accurate.


Macor is actually a composite material of ceramic and glass has a list of the ingredients.

(Travis) #23

Thanks Darren. I will need it too

(Tito) #24

So… whatever happened? Did anyone try milling the 316L?

(Tito) #25

I ask because I’m contemplating a project that involves use of somewhat small dual thread lead screws (for making a very small self centering clamp). The most obvious source for the screws and nuts is to cannibalize a wood clamp like this one:

I would need to machine the cylindrical nuts to rectangular cuboids, hence my question.

Btw, I’m open to other sources and suggestions if anybody has any. Thanks as always.

(William Adams) #26

My inclination there would be to just machine a fixture (and maybe a matching jig) which would hold the part in question and allow me to file it to size/shape by hand.

I doubt though, that the part in question is a particularly tough steel alloy, even if you get a real Jorgensen clamp, belike it’d cut okay just using the steel settings on a Nomad or Shapeoko.

(Apollo Crowe) #27

Heres a link to the Sample parts I have cut in Stainless Steel, Titanium, and Brass:

(Tito) #28

Thanks guys–when I get chance, I’ll try unleashing my Nomad on the steel and we’ll see how it goes.