Surfaced wasteboard, still not cutting even and help with engraving

I came to this thread late, but thought I would offer what I do (thanks to Apollo working with me) and it is repeatable and consistent for me.

I am a jeweler. I primarily work with sterling silver and only engrave on the sterling so far.

For engraving, I use PreciseBits 2-flute ball nose end mill, their item number MN208-0250-004B. I also used their ME Lube on the surface of my metal after I have completed the zeroing before starting. To maintain the life of my end mills, I use a bit of Brown polymer MUPS that I buy from Enjen Joes Products.

My settings for engraving areā€¦
I set up a contour tool with its unique number in Carbide Create.
The tools settings are:
Depth/pass is .001 in.
Stepover - .003 in
Feedrate 10.100 in
Plungerate 1.262 in
RPM 9000.000
Cutting Depth 0.001 in **** This is very important for engraving otherwise it will go to deep for what I do
Offset Direction - no offset

I too had problems with different engravers breaking. Once I got the PreciseBit and stuck with it, everything works great. Oh, and I get their end mills with the depth ring so my placement of the end mill in Nomad is consistent.

I use the blue wax to adhere my material to the waste board. I apply it with a heat gun and a palette knife, kind of spread it like frosting (thin enough that you canā€™t see the metal, only the blue wax) so the entire surface is covered. Iā€™ve drawn lines on my waste board so Iā€™m lining up my material correctly. Once I have the material aligned on the waste board, I use my steel bench blocks to secure the metal and let the wax set up so I can start cutting. I probably wait at least 5 or 10 minutes (which may be too long) for the wax to set so I can start the cutting program. I found it was important to weigh down your material while the wax was setting so that your surface is as level as possible. When I didnā€™t do that, I experienced uneven engraving too.

Now the blue wax is tough to remove and I have since found the white wax is water soluble. But I have a supply of blue wax and I actually like it. I have found that I can remove the excess wax from my pieces using a paper towel and the heat gun, wearing heavy duty leather work gloves to protect my hands from the heat. Once I have most of the wax removed, I soak the pieces in Goo-Gone and that allows me to wipe things clean fast.

Once my blue wax is gone, I will switch to the white as that will be a faster clean up.

Another important point I have found with end mills, have one for each type of metal you are working with. When I cut bronze or mokume, I label and use one end mill per material so Iā€™m never cutting silver with one that I used on bronzeā€¦it has extended the life of my end mills.

Hope this helps.

10 Likes

This should be a tutorial!
Thanks.

3 Likes

Youā€™re welcome @jdg3. This evolved over a number of months. Apolloā€™s input on settings. LOTS of trial and error. I knew once the right combination was found, it would be something I could settle on. :slight_smile:

3 Likes

Unbelievably helpful!! Thank you so much! I work with small metal items in a similar scenario and Iā€™m a newbie at CNC. I work with acid etching in brass, copper and nickel. Iā€™m looking forward to milling instead of working with the chemicals. Thanks again, much appreciated!

Kim

2 Likes

Youā€™re welcome @kdur. I got my machine last September so I imagine I went through a similar learning curve. The machine does an excellent job and is a huge time saver for me. Best of luck with yours. :slight_smile:

3 Likes