I would think that you could zero the machine using UGS, and then send your CC job using CM.
Agree @mpfreivald -
UGS will ultimately be running the Triquetra codes for zeroing with that touch plate. My hope was I could run a CC.egc file with UGS. I was inquiring as to why UGS was unable to recognize/parse/run the CC.egc files and it’s apparent that standards have unique/partial implementations.
I thought CC generated “regular” gcode but I don’t have that much experience with it and I am still a noob myself. I had “buggy” problems with it and bought Cut 2D and then upgraded to V-Carve Desk Top. To clarify, I liked CC for it’s simplicity and some of the little problems maybe could have been my computer but as I was learning I quickly saw that I wanted to do more than the software was capable of. I’m sure the fine folks at Carbide will continue to develop the software with many more features as time goes on.
@jimidi, you can check http://www.vectric.com/ and read about the different types of software they have to offer. As I stated in another post, they will allow you to upgrade typically for the difference between the list price at time of purchase of your edition of software and the current retail price for the software you want upgrade to.
Carbide Create makes encrypted G-code — one can access the plaintext version by opening it up in Carbide Motion and copying it out from there:
I exported the CM G-code dialog to a text file (.gc), then fired up UGS. Homed my XXL, jogged to a mock zero for a job, loaded up the .gc, clicked “run” and then I got an unrecognized command “T6 M11” not recognized… hmm.
Not so universal.
I scroll to the top of my Notepad window, ix-nay this line (and the paran’d tool comment?), re-save the file and viola!
And, I get the “.egc” extension now (encrypted G-code).
Learning… off to hack a Triquetra connector of some-type for my controller and will try running that G-code collection. I really like the UGS “Return to Home” along with the animation and all the other HUD features that UGS has.
Success with the Triquetra last night. I have a Molex crimper (WM9999 DigiKey P/N) and 0.1" receptacle pins/housings and made a test cable for the probe connections.
First pass running the G-code I was a bit farther than 1/2" out and it puked right on the X-motion plate contact. Second pass and ensuing passes all successful.
So is everyone’s Tri-Q block uniquely dimensioned?
I still have to run my fine-tuning steps and figure out what I’d like for permanent cabling, but all-in-all liking this tool.
I am sure they are all cut with a similar pattern on a mill but there are slight differences in the dimensions. I am so glad everyone that is using it likes it. It was one of those things I was very happy to have found and wanted to share it with everyone. Certainly makes a multi-tool cut much easier for me.
You will have to fine tune it Jim. If you downloaded the new version of the G code generator be aware that the fine tuning video on the site is not accurate to the 7a1 version when it says to type your fine tune numbers into the “Inch Mode” page. You will have to go to the “Settings” page to do it. I had to contact Charley to get around this little problem. He said he was going to update the page to reflect this. I’m sure he did already.
I love mine! It really does save time and I like the fact that I can now do tool changes and and still be precise on the Z axis!
Oh, and thanks for sharing your info Stacy!
wondering out loud, could one simply tweak the dimensions of your base block to compensate? I calipered mine as best I could, and thinking all compensation would net the same result. I’ll get to try this over the weekend, and I’ll also have some more time to work on my hacks.
Haven’t tried mine yet, as my wires from pololu.com are missing/mis-sorted in the USPS system were suppose to be delivered 6/23. maybe they will find it soon
As Charley put it, the fine tuning is to compensate for the different machines. My Y axis was off by a good amount. You said, “could one simply tweak the dimensions of your base block to compensate?”. Yes that is essentially what you are doing by “fine tuning”.
I’m new to this so bear with me.
I set up my cables using what was recommended and
they don’t plug in all the way.
Are they supposed to, do I need to push them in hard?
I clipped the wires so it wasn’t loose and it didn’t stop when it hit the side of the block.
Do I need to re-do the plug (lots of cord) and push it into board “firmly”?
Make sure you have the pins on the board in the two holes on the connector. You will need to put a little effort into pushing the connector on but it the pins should slide in relatively easily. Just make sure the pins line up with the holes on the connectors. If you still think it is taking too much effort, take the pins on the wires out of the connectors and slide the wire pins on the board pins to make sure they fit.
Sounds like I need to be “less careful” and push a little firmer. Does it matter which cable goes in which hole?
Maybe I’m using the wrong holes. I’m using the ones in the picture outlined by the white box. It’s located on the right side of my board but the left side of your picture.
The box has the the number 12 and q2 next to it. Is this where the plug goes?
John, look to the upper right of the picture. Right above the pins you will see the word “probe”. That’s where you plug your connector into. It doesn’t matter which wire goes where.
Looking at your picture I see the white plastic area has the male connectors for the “probe”. Of course that’s where to plug it in.
Just got your reply thanks
The light just went on for me…I guess I need to get the bifocals out and start using them (once more!)
Let us know if you got it fixed. Sorry I was eating dinner but looks like Bill got you take care of.