XL and XXL Threaded Insert table Grid and Clamps

(Temujin Kuechle) #21

I’ve been thinking about what to eventually replace the MDF spoilboard wirh and found a source, interstate plastics. The price and delivery cost is higher than I had imagined, even for .5" thick sheets.
It looks like some great material though. Would the threaded inserts be a different type for the starboard compared to wood?

(Temujin Kuechle) #22

I agree. Also, there were 10 in the bag, and I was expecting 50. No news from them yet. I guess pk50 means something different in Zoro-ese than pack of 50.

(William Adams) #23

If you’re in the Midwest, and would be willing to use HDPE and double up on it, see:


(listed at: https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Vendors#Midwest — I used HDPE on top of my MDF wasteboard as documented at: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6045 )

Also check in w/ local sign-making shops — sometimes they’re willing to order a 4’x8’ sheet, esp. if you’re willing to wait so that they can use it to fill out an order w/ their vendors — also there are specialty sheet goods suppliers (which reminds me, I need to budget for ordering some).

(Gene Gore) #24

Thread the starboard or buy inserts made for plastic

(Gene Gore) #25

Amazon has the best deal that I could find if you’re a prime member. 2’x4’x1" shipped for 120.

(Temujin Kuechle) #26

Thanks for sourcing that HDPE/Starboard.
I have an XXL, so maybe 2 sheets? ($240, plus less than double the shipping and handling?).

Edit: The local plastics shop can order 1/2" thick starboard cut to size for a good price that includes shipping, taxes are of course extra.

(Temujin Kuechle) #27

I’m just an 8 hour drive north of Carbide 3D HQ, depending on traffic.
I’ve checked my local hardware stores, several within a 10 mile radius.
The price and availability are an issue for the threaded inserts, so Amazon Prime is a better bet.

(Temujin Kuechle) #28

A quick question: what is the thinking behind having a huge number of holes for work holding?

Flexibility, convenience? Isn’t that where T-Slots would be better?
I’m still on the steep part of the learning curve.

Because, “just in case” seems a bit over kill.

(William Adams) #29

Yeah, the availability of T-nuts / threaded inserts is a pain — the pricing in small lots excrutiatingly so.

If one is doing lots, then arguably one might as well do a table material which will allow for threads — easy enough to drill out and install additional threads.

I did a central, radial arrangement using Phi when I did my threaded insert spoilboard: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6045 and it worked well.

Currently using the central T-track arrangement: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=8332&p=65068#p65068 (yeah, I’m a big fan of symmetry).

For all that, I think an arrangement:

  • starting from the corner origin
  • spaced on phi
  • with the first set spaced slightly larger than the smallest block of material one wishes to use and the spacing always being at least half clamp length of additional space

(Jerry Gray) #30

I only did the front half of my waste board.
It probably is over kill, but you never know where you’ll need them.
The main thing I like about them, is that you know they are square and true to your machine (if you cnc it in place), and I can put studs in to line up and square sheets repeatedly.
The MDF doesn’t hold the threads well at all, tho. Much more than hand tight and you’ll strip it.
I’ve already drilled many new holes from them stripping, and of course I always need one where there’s not one.
I also learned to use a smaller drill bit than recommended for the inserts, so they’re tighter.

(Temujin Kuechle) #31

There are many ways to skin a cat. Your solution is interesting.