2 pin switch connectors

Need to move my big red emergency pause button to the Carbide controller. Are those 2 pin connectors JST or Molex?

Molex:

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Thanks. Big digikey fan…Midwestern roots.
As to Frys: Fry's Electronics has gone out of business after 36 years

Note that if you have, or intend to have, the Proximity Switch upgrade, then a daughter board is supplied that covers all of the 2-pin connectors. After that upgrade, you’ll need a 3-pin connector for the Feed Hold, and use the outermost pins and ignore the centre one.

Moving the switch was a fail. The old sparkfun machine had a normally closed SPST toggle for the emergency stop. I had a big fancy red button that would open when it was pressed. Guessing the Carbide controller expects the opposite(?)

Where are you connecting the switch?

John:

This may be a matter of semantics but there is no emergency stop on the Carbide Controller. There is a connector for Feed / Hold.

Bill

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That depends on the version.

Neil:

Thanks for the correction.

Bill

The Feed Hold switch is normally open.

You can usually predict this condition if the jumper on the board you are connecting to is not shorted out by default (ie: it’s normally open).

True (although with the Sparkfun was actually the opposite). Normally open it is then. If anybody has a Digikey part no. it would save me wading through 1000s of switches.

Suggestions?

Are you sure about this? Maybe there are different versions. The Stepoko schematic suggests you would connect a NO switch.
Which version of C3D’s board are you using? If you’re using this as feed hold, there are a few relatively recent threads that will be helpful.
If you’re using this as an actual E-stop, the recommendation is to just actually cut power to everything. (Rather than to use the abort pin)

I just checked the switch that was on the Stepoko with a multimeter and its definitely NC. Pushing it down pops it into NO mode.

When I hook this up to the Carbide controller it throws errors.

Not sure I want to go build the kill-all-power thing. I’ve been using the Shapeoko for 4-5 years now and its extremely rare I run into a situation where I have to kill it–I don’t experiment as much as I used it.

What errors?
Which C3D board?
Where are you connecting it?

Just for clarity…

The “kill all” wiring solution is a mains power supply solution that removes power to everything that drives the moving parts of your machine. This is independent of the controller board and usually requires a “normally on but always off when you hit it’ type of emergency power switch. It works for any appliance you attach to it, not just a CNC.

The thing some of us do with the shapeoko board is to attach a normally open switch to the feed-hold pins on the board to give a “soft stop” that is similar to pushing pause in Carbide Motion but is easier because of clumsy human interactions in emergency situations.

These two things are not the same.

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@Gerry
I think @johnelle is aware of that. The older C3D boards, and the Stepoko board, had a connection for E-stop. It’s tied to A0 and performs a grbl reset and disables the steppers.
As had been stated a few times here and as evidenced by the removal of the E-stop connection, it’s probably not the best way.

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Fair enough. I was just trying to clarify terms. The “kill-all-power” reference john made is ambiguous and does not make me thing of the e-stop you described.