3 XXL overhaul after being in storage - thoughts?

Hi everyone. We moved house and my 3 XXL sat in storage for several months. We’re finally settled enough that I can get it set up again and am hoping for some feedback on my plans.

It was stored in a “climate controlled” facility, but I’m sure it’s out of square and the MDF base board is showing some swelling at the screw holes where the MDF wasteboard was mounted.

I stored it with all three axes locked down with clamps, but due to space issues I had to set it vertically on end - i.e. front edge down on the floor. I probably should have pulled off the belts, but didn’t think of it. I’m going to replace the belts just in case.

I set it up in my new shop space and ran a test cut - it definitely needs tramming and truing. So my plan is to:

  1. Level the workbench
  2. Level the frame
  3. Replace v-wheels and belts
  4. Sand the MDF base board high spots level
  5. Tram the router on plate glass
  6. Install t-track wasteboard kit
  7. Flatten that wasteboard
  8. Get to making sawdust

Am I missing anything I should be doing? Should I go ahead and pull the feet and set it on rigid foam as long as I’m at it?

Thanks!

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Sounds spot on (except for the sanding — easier to have the machine do the work). We’ve always maintained that the Maintenance Kits allow rebuilding a machine to like new. I’d also consider pulling the MDF baseplate and using it to either make a replacement set (and put the originals aside as a template).

If you’re installing the T-track, I’d definitely recommend new MDF, and seal the baseplate w/ a couple of coats of spare urethane or other suitable finish.

I like putting the machines on foam, mostly for the dampening of noise/vibration, but it definitely makes leveling and tramming easier as well — so long as you can source a sheet of foam (or sections such as the anti-fatigue mats from Harbor Freight and similar places), there’s no reason not to.

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If you put finish on your base board be sure to do both sides and edges. If you only put a finish on one side the thing will curl up like a potato chip. With wood, even sawdust, you must do the same thing to both sides or you will get warping. The reason is if one side is left unfinished it can adsorb more moisture and will expand while the other side with finish will stay stable and the two actions on the material will cause warping.

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Thanks, gang! I’m replacing the base board, cut and drilled the replacement panels last night, got one sealed, will do the other today.
I’m using wood hardener as an initial seal coat since it’s basically poly thinned with acetone. May or may not do a followup coat of poly, not sure yet. I’ve used wood hardener before with MDF router templates and it works fine.

I’m not real happy with the surface quality of the MDF I was able to find locally, it’s rougher than I like, almost has a particle board roughness, rather than a smooth paper-like finish. I’m guessing Home Depot is going with a cheaper supplier these days. But it’s good enough for this purpose.

The replacement V wheels in the maintenance kit are stouter than the original units, which is great, but the belts are softer and more flexible. I would say that it’s due to the age of the originals, but I remember them being somewhat stiff when I assembled it a few years back.

Anyway, on my way with my rebuild, going great so far!

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