I did a V-Carve with a flat area clearance in VCarve. The wood is some old maple (I think) from a 1960’s chemistry lab. I’m getting massive tear-out. Since I have to finish this job, just wondered if anyone has any tips or recommended tools on how to sand without disturbing the already-stained top. Last time (different wood, however) I did two coats of 1/2 lb shellac, but some of the stain chipped during the cut, so I didn’t do it this time.
The ram’s head is only 6" tall, to give you an idea of scale.
If I was in your situation, my first try would be with my flex shaft rotary tool. You can get a relatively inexpensive one at Harbor Freight that works fairly well. They are used for power carving. I have an assortment of bits and rotary sanding attachments that would get into fairly small spaces. You can control the speed with a pedal that provides good control of the bits you use.
Just spent a long time with a chisel. Looks better, but not great.
I can’t use a rotary tool because it will mess with the stained part - I had to stain it first for the contrast, but it really was fuzzy after it. I used the rotary tool on my test cut, sans stain, and it worked well.
Ha - you are right - it’s pine, not maple. Oops. Still working on identifying wood species…
Can’t do brass wire brush because I’m afraid of scratching the stain.
Thanks for tip on the files/rasps.
I did run the v-bit first…can’t imagine what would have happened if I had run the end mill first!
I did another project tonight on the remnants of the original board - slowed the speed on the v-bit and ran the v-carve tool path twice. I think it helped (emphasis on think) but it was still bad.
Then I did a quick v-carve on a small piece of project 1/2" pine from Lowes, and the difference was amazing (no fuzzy, no tear out). I’m blaming the original choice of material.
My friend who knows CNC keeps telling me to stop using pine, but until the 5 people I know who are asking for projects start paying…it will still be pine…
I do plan to try out some scrap pieces of maple and walnut just to see the difference and see if I am a convert.
I finally gave up on the scrap wood and bought an edge-glued pine panel at Lowes, and with the settings from mjmike69688, it came out much better, which proves it was the original wood. In a past experiment, I stained, then two coats of 1/2 lb cut shellac. Two was too much and there was a bit of flaking off of the stain, but I think one coat might be enough to strengthen the grain and prevent tearout. The good thing with shellac (so long as it is dewaxed) is that you can coat it with any finish - oil based, water based, lacquer. Planning to test the one-coat theory this weekend…with my new touch probe!!! I also got some scrap maple to try, so I might quit pine…
