I purchased my shapeoko XXL from a friend and he has this style Bit setter:
From the image it looks like there’s a contact pad on it. All mine seems to have is the exposed magnet:
I do have a lathe. So someone will be kind enough to give me the dimensions I can make one myself if the part is not available.
It does not matter what size magnet you place there. I glued mine on top.
Oh, so it’s supposed to look this way? Nothing is missing?
Correct. They switched to the replaceable magnet for when you destroy it.
Well, as the old adage goes: Knock on wood…
I have an older SO3 XXL. When I got the BitSetter without the magnet I had to change my work flow. I did not when trying to get the thing hooked up and working. I have a small divet in the top. It has not hurt anything. I bought a used SO3 XL with your type. I was cleaning it and the magnet flew away never to be seen again. I measured it and I think it was 11 MM. I could not find any 11MM ones so I got a 10MM stack of them to use for projects that need rare earth magnets. The 10MM worked fine should you ever lose the one you have. I got them on amazon.
That was the second style of BitSetter button before we switched back to the original:
Interesting. I bought my machine used and the bitsetter looks like the one in your lower picture but without the magnet. I always wondered why that recess and lip were there. I guess from the posts that is not the desired end state although it has worked fine. I have a stash of button magnets and will see if one fits in there. I know a lot of people have just made their own tops.
There was a different thread last week about having to cycle power to the machine after disabling the bitsetter according to @gdon_2003 and some others saying a re-initialize was sufficient. I have to agree with @gdon_2003 after some work this weekend. I was switching between flattening boards and doing carves and flipping the bitsetter on/off. If I didn’t power down after turning off bitsetter even though I did initialize the router would move the the correct XY position to start the carve and then move up in Z rather than down and would grind at the top of travel and then air cut.
I was setting Z with the McFly just prior to initiating the job. I repeated the exact scenario 3 times and each time the same thing happened.
Shapeoko Pro XXL with Z Plus.
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