I have a Shapeoko Pro that is about 3 years old. I occasionally have episodes where one of the axis quits working and I can fix the problem by just reconnecting and securing the flimsy cable connectors. I have them all tied down and secured with many tie wraps which reduces the episodes but eventually one of them seems to loose their connection. They always look fine but disconnecting and reconnecting them fixes the problem. Is there a better cable connector system and maybe better cables (maybe with no connectors) that I could purchase as an upgrade? Thanks
I know this is not exactly answering your question, I used “Corrosion Block” on all the connectors on my S5 Pro 4x4. It is a marine product that is pricey, but it’s really cheap considering the lack of failures I have had on all my marine stuff over the years. Based on that, no connection is made without using it. I just don’t get “dry connector” connections anymore and I know what the oxidation process does to connections when left dry.
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If it’s the Z-axis in particular, write in to support@carbide3d.com — actually, please do that no matter which one it is and we will try to look into this with you.
@Redlander This?
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Yes sir, goes on every connection I make. Several boat trailers used this technique with heat shrink connectors and no failures in over ten years on salt water dipped lights. The main issue I have with the product is the aerosol quits long before the can is empty. Once that happens I just drain the can and use common applicators at that point, pipits work fine in most cases and it goes a looooong way for a few drops.
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I’ve used that on my boat and trailer as well, I also endorse that product.
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i had issues with my z axis, support sent another cable, same thing, I ended up cutting and soldering the leads. upgraded connectors would be cool, its always in the back of my head. I do still have pretty regular issues with the x axis zero and need to adjust the cable to make contact. most of the time when I power it on, i tap my wrench to the sensors to make sure they are connected before initializing
Soldered connections are explicitly advised against in vibrating assemblies.
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yeah support did advise me of that
Why is that? My impression was that a soldered connection was more secure than a press-fit type.
Solder is brittle and does not flex and when vibrated will develop cracks/voids.
So much for my idea to just solder everything.
On the other hand my connectors “do not flex and when vibrated will develop cracks/voids.” You just described the exact problem I am trying to solve. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Soldering has its applications. If the connection is not really clean the solder can oxidize and the bond will separate, especially when introduced to vibrations.
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I wonder if a small terminal block like this would work. It would seem to create a more secure connection than my current electrical connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H82JXM3?lv=shuf&channelId=500&plpRedirect=mhFallback&th=1
Such terminal blocks were used on the original Shapeoko 1 and worked well, so long as the wires leading up to them were secured so that the wires entering the connectors did not move/flex as the connection.
Another option are “field-attachable” which are about $22/set (male+female). Automationdirect or similar.
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thats the problem I was having, the gantry moving around would drop connection to the z stepper motor and it would drop