Can you control router power using gcode?

Perfect! I am glad it works for you, too.

Will you be adding pictures and links? I’m sure lots of us would like to know more.

I sent Carbide3D an email stating that I had issues with usb disconnects all the time, and can barely get through a cut. They sent me a new v2.3 carbide motion board, and sent me a label to send back the other one. And now I don’t have disconnects anymore. So I would go that route.

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Thanks, I think you misunderstood. I (at present) don’t get any USB Disconnects) and DON’T want any in the future by adding something to the board that wasn’t in their design, which is why I WHERE did you put the relay (Location relative to the controller board). Let’s try this again…

Ohh, I just tested it out last night, I haven’t located it anywhere yet. However, I have an enclosure which the USB runs directly out the back and up on top of the enclosure where I put my laptop. I have the power cord for the carbide motion board, directed to the right of the machine and then running along the base out of the front right. I then have my router cable running out the top front left corner of the enclosure. So I will probably just have it mounted on the front left, away from the other cables, and where my router power cord is already running.

This is about the best I can do right now. But it is pretty simple. And I use RoguePirin’s gcode of “then the g-code should contain a line similar to “M3S10000” to turn on the spindle and “M5” to turn it off.” And those work perfectly. So you would just need to add it in to your gcode.


Most CAM programs have an option to output these for you; just set the RPM value for each cutter to 10,000. When setup this way, you won’t have to edit your g-code to add the lines; they will already be in there.

  • Actual setup depends on the program you use.

Yes, this is awesome. Now I just need them to have a homing sequence for tool changes with the shapeoko 3, because I have to set my tool depth at each tool change, and I have the probe sensor hooked up.

Mostly folks just use a separate G-code file for each tool and attendant paths — an all-in-one option would be nice, but would need to be well-coordinated betwixt CAM and communication/control — I believe all the hooks are there, just someone has to make use of them and document the specific steps.

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You could use the coolant pin to drive a cheap arduino relay and use this to switch a larger relay for the router.

The pwm output MAY give odd readings on a digital voltmeter as it gives “pulses” and as the dvm presents very little load the reading may not be accurate. Also it may give odd behaviour for controlling a relay ( not what it was designed to do).

I have been playing with the pwm output as a pwm is not always the best choice for controlling spindles/Lasers - and have found for reliable results a little electronics added on helps

What coolant pin?

Sorry, I was basing it off this !

I do most of my own electronics / and mechanical builds … !

A few components connected to the pwm output to provide a definite on/off would be better then.

Surprised there is no coolant option tho

Will find somthing for you if it it will be of use :slight_smile:

I am having a problem where interference is tripping my endstop switches. Not sure why. But I just turn them off after I home and turn them on when I have to home again, and that seems to work.

Homing or Limit switches?

im not sure, it just says it is tripped… I use UGS and it doesnt specify.

I’m kind of thinking that it is the Upper Z Home switch. Because the wire runs by the router… and the Z motor…

That was what concerned me about your setup.

Yesterday, I ran a 10 foot 5V cable from the controller box through all the drag chain, to the outside of my enclosure. I will let the switching (relay) of the 120v occur outside of the enclosure to minimize the EMF related errors. Relay arrives tomorrow…I’ll keep you posted as to it operation and concerns.

Mind didn’t come with drag chain. But I would like to incorporate drag chain eventually.

Mine either, but it was a wise $10 investment to stop the wires from rubbing.

What did you buy? and my post must be 20 characters so I am typing this.