Possibly a dumb question but I recently built my Shapeoko 3 XXL which came with the Carbide Compact Router. The router is packaged with a single wrench which fits the (larger) nut at the end of the spindle to secure the collet. I read elsewhere that the CCR is a clone / unbranded version of the Makita router formerly offered with the Shapeoko (rt0701c?) and the wiki indicates that the collet wrench sizes are 22mm / 13mm.
First, are these the correct sizes for the unbranded CCR clone? If so, perhaps a dumb question but why would this be shipped with only one of the two required wrenches? I assume this isn’t just an oversight because the instructions don’t mention a second wrench.
I used one of the assembly wrenches to tighten the bit, but it broke after two tool changes. I have a wrench set but they’re all too thick to grab the small slots on the spindle. At first, I was thinking perhaps it was to encourage the creation of our own using the machine, but that would require the proper installation of a bit using two appropriate wrenches… So I’m at a loss.
You can press the collet lock button instead of using the wrench.
If you use a wrench it needs to be a low profile one (or you can take a grinder to an inexpensive one).
Alternately you can put a 5mm hex wrench in through the hole in the shaft.
I knew I may regret asking… The instructions that come with the router don’t mention any of this and I didn’t see it anywhere else. Thanks for the quick response Will!
The only dumb question is the one nobody asks. I’d be willing to bet that a minimum of 30 people will read this post in the next year(people that didn’t ask this question) and say to themselves “Oh, that’s what that button does!”, haha!!!
I have 2 x Makitas one in my CNC the other a freehand unit.The second machine does a lot of work with the one size cutter and so I am inclined to leave it in the collet between uses. Recently I went to change the bit and used a spanner (wrench) and the collet lock button.
With so much use the collet must have tightened because I couldn’t for the life of me loosen it. Being stupid (and lazy) I elected to tap the spanner with some other tool while still holding the lock button. There are no prizes for guessing what happened - the metal casting around the lock button broke. Fortunately the router is still useable but the button won’t do its job anymore. So now I always use two spanners on the machines. The only time I use the lock button on the CNC is to temporally insert a pointy tool to accurately locate ‘0’ on my workpiece and then only hand-tighten the lock nut - I never use it to tighten a cutting tool. Patrick
Excellent point — hopefully we can work something better out on this presently.
Until then, folks should get a low-profile 13mm wrench.
This one has good reviews and looks to fit:
As @patonclover experienced, using one wrench can cause housing to crack on Makita. I have seen this a few times. Your not the only one so don’t feel bad.
@uber As for the wrench sizes here’s what I have with my Makita
22mm ------7/8" for larger wrench (Collet)
13mm------ 1/2" for smaller wrench (Shaft)
Thanks for all the info and quick responses. I am used to a regular router and planned to use two collet wrenches to be sure the bit is secured properly, so I didn’t realize there was a different way on these compact routers. I think it would be a good idea to include all of this info in the instruction booklet which doesn’t even mention installing bits.
@mjmike6988 and @patonclover thanks for the heads up! I went ahead and ordered one of the wrenches from Amazon as @WillAdams suggested. I’ll follow up if I have any issues.
First, the narrow (cone) wrenches are very common for cycling and you can probably get one there.
Second, I wonder if you are unnecessary over tighten the nut of the collet damaging both your collets and the router. I don’t know if there are published standards for the recommended torque on the collet but if you need to use a hammer to tap the wrench, you are over tightening. I know you don’t want the endmill to move or fall off but the way I’ve been told to do it is to insert the endmill or router bit make the bit snug so it does not fall out then give it a quick turn to tighten. I’ve never had a bit fall off or move and the collet is still tight at the end of the job when I followed that protocol .
I think the phrase “Monkey tight, not Gorilla tight” is appropriate here…
My point above was that over time with a lot of use (read many hours of cutting) the collet nut will self tighten well beyond that which it was tightened when first setup. This is the way it needs to be, one doesn’t want the nut loosening over time. In the my case above the collet nut had tightened to the point where it was very difficult to loosen even with two spanners (wrenches).
you may consider cleaning the collet, spindle, and collet nut.
easy to collect dust and grime in any of these which will reduce effective grip.
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