Hi All,
Using a Shapeoko 3XXL and the latest versions of Carbide Create and Motion. I’m having issues with pocket cuts not having a smooth bottom. Using a new 1/4 end mill. It looks clean in the simulation but the real world result leaves a line between where the bit passes. The width of the letter is just about 1/2 inch so passes through twice. Am I missing a setting or should I scale everything slightly smaller so its just under 1/2 inch wide?
Adjusting stepover might get another pass inside, but maybe easier to try editing your Depth per Pass so that it results in the final pass removing only a thin layer of material — assuming the default of 0.04 inches four passes are being made and the last is removing 0.03" — reducing that to 0.037" would result in five passes with the last removing only 0.002" of material.
Thank you! I’ll try adjusting the depth per pass per your suggestion.
Adjusted depth per to pass to 0.037. Re-ran on the same “U” I originally posted. It cleaned it up a little but I watched the bit miss that little strip in the middle when it passed on either side.
See if adjusting Stepover will get an additional movement to clean that up.
Alternately, since it looks as if the tool reaches to the halfway point, if you have Pro try an Inside Contour toolpath reversing the direction.
I unfortunately don’t have pro. While maintaining 0.037 depth per pass, I adjusted the step over from .125 to 0.09 which did cause the bit to run down the center but still not clean. Have never had to mess with step over before so I hope this is correct. Upon further inspection, there is actually a ridge, like the bit is cutting deeper on part of the path for some reason.
Have you checked that your Z-axis is trammed and perpendicular to XY motion?
I haven’t but will check that next.
It might as @WillAdams suggested but I think there is a bug in the software as well. I have experienced that little ridge on several projects. I just use a small chisel to remove the artifacts but changing your stepover would help as well. I also have an SO3 with an HDZ and my tram is good but I still get those little ridges. So try all the above of tramming, stepover and if necessary a chisel.
@gdon_2003 I tried the chisel which worked to clean up artifacts but still have the ridge I need to hand sand. And the scale I’m wanting to do these, it adds a ton of time. I’m going try tramming today to see if that helps clean things up a bit.
Definitely looks like tram issue.
Yea, its a tram issue. I did a metal rod in the router and spun it around while lowering Z. It hits first in the lower left corner. Highest in the upper right corner with about 5/8 inch space. Is there a good guide on the proper way to adjust this for a Shapeoko 3 XXL?
Did some research on how to adjust and finally getting back to it this weekend. One thing I’ve never thought about but haven’t seen it mentioned in guides is the play in the router mount. When I push up on the router, the whole mount shifts back on Y. Basically once the router hits the stock its going to tilt back slightly. Is this normal? I don’t see it allows videos to be attached so hopefully this picture explains it. Left pic is resting - right pic is when I push up on the bottom of the router.
The Delrin V wheels should be adjusted so that the machine is held along each axis of movement by them.
Best test for this is to power down, slowly/gently move the machine to the center of motion for each axis, power up, grab the tip of a probing pin or the spindle and try to shift it in all directions — it shouldn’t move — if it does, investigate and address what allows the movement.
I took off all of the V wheels on the X axis cross bar, cleaned, and put back together. Something must of been out of whack since I no longer have the slack when pushing up on the router (Win!). Though when I grabbed the router bracket with both hands I would still get some movement to the up and left. Did the same thing on the V wheels for Z axis and one of the bottom ones that were hidden broke. Time to order some parts. Thanks for all the help!
On belt and v-wheel machines it is a good idea to have the maintenance kit.
To adjust the v-whells I use a stiff nylon brush to clean the roller and then a white 3m finishing pad to clean the buggers off the rail. Then if you have to replace a v-wheel there is a small washer between the mount and the v-wheel. That little washer can be hard to get back on but it is very important because it keeps the v-wheel from rubbing against the frame. To adjust a v-wheel use a metric wrench, the newer ones are 10MM the older ones are slightly smaller. Hold the nut and loosen the cap head bolt. Then use the wrench to adjust the eccentric inside the bearing until the v-wheel is snug. Do not over tighten. Snug is enough. Then hold the wrench in place and tighten the cap headed bolt. If you dont hold the wrench in place torque will over tighten your v-wheel. After adjusting all the lower v-wheels, the upper ones are fixed, grab hold of the router mount and it should not move. Then go to each end of the gantry and do the same lifting. Things should not move. Routine maintenance with a stiff nylon brush will help keep your v-wheels in good shape. Sawdust gets compressed in the v-wheels over time and a periodic cleaning will help with accuracy of your carving.
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