Yes, all the upgrades (Enclosed electronics, One-piece MDF table, 9mm Belts, New, more rigid Z plate, US-Made V wheels and eccentric nuts (these are more a sourcing change than an upgrade AIUI), Homing switches included, Adapter ring to fit Makita RT0701C router) are included in all the current Carbide 3D machines — I believe Sparkfun still has some old stock, but that should sell out presently and everyone will be on the same page. Other upgrades are listed at: http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Upgrade_Overview
(optional) an inexpensive Windows 10 tablet which is set up so as to have a USB port to connect to the machine while still receiving power — use this rather than a machine w/ exposed keyboard to control the machine
(optional) an M3 tap, a suitable drill and drill bit and some M3 countersink flathead machine screws (to secure the drag chain brackets to the extrusion)
Thank you for the great info! I have the book on order. Can you point me towards some good build guides? Couple other questions: This will be kept in the garage, does the cold weather affect it? Do large changes in temperature affect it? How critical is the levelness of the table this is placed on? What level do you recommend? I’m getting a DEWALT DW088K laser level, would this be usable for the purpose?
The temperature thing has been debated a bit — the operating range for the belts is quite wide (23 – 158 degrees Fahrenheit if memory serves) — a couple of customers just warm the machine up with a heater before use and that seems to work for them. FWIW, I keep mine in the basement and move it outside when it’s time to cut ipe and the like and then clean it off and bring it in.
As I noted, precision has to start somewhere — any good quality spirit level would be fine. I find the electronic gadgets mystifying — probably it would work somehow, but I can’t help w/ it.
Note that the original SO3 used rubber bump-on pads, but this has since been changed so that current machines use (the same/similar?) leveling feet as the XL and XXL. FWIW, I didn’t bother on my XL — instead building the machine on a leveled Baltic Birch plywood board on top of an old Yoga mat (for cushioning and sound absorption).
As I noted above, precision has to start somewhere, and it would not be good for the precision of the frame to move it from one surface where it was leveled, to another where the four leveling feet were not then adjusted so as to have equal, solid contact.