Hope this is allowed. 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BHHP71C
Not to take way from the ShapeOKO brushless motors but on a CO2 laser the water has to be 20C or less. I think those requirements are tighter than the brushless motors. The CW-5000 units are of varying quality and a bit overpriced since it looks like a piece of lab equipment. Right now, Iām using a 1 gallon jug of ice water placed in a 5 gallon bucket of water as needed. The above link will be my replacement when I get tired of doing that.
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Not to minimize your great contributions to chilling, does anyone think that one of these water coolers could be adapted? I have one that just sits here and wastes electricity most of the day. They claim
ice cold at approximately 47Ā° F
I canāt find a spec on how quickly they can take the heat out or a duty cycle.
https://www.amazon.com/Avalon-Bottom-Loading-Cooler-Dispenser/dp/B01AKTFK6Y
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@neilferreri here is a link to the chiller Iām think of getting for my co2 laser. Reasonable priced, industrial type design.
https://www.lightobject.com/Cooling-Systems/Lightobject-1600W-Water-Chiller-for-CO2-Laser-Machine-AC110V-60Hz. .
Thinking of setting the chiller up to be movable between the laser and the Shapeoko (when I upgrade the spindle).
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Wow that is a hot garage, almost as hot as our Nordic saunas 
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Darn, I made the effort to go and convert to Fahrenheit (which felt to me like using Google translate to Chinese), and yet my European subconscious took over and had to write āĀ°Cā
So itās actually a cold garage, Itās not heated.
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Who knows about G-Pennyās but Mechatronās liquid cooled spindles want a maximum of 35C.
Regarding 90 Watt CO2 lasers: āYour laser uses a water-cooled continuous beam CO2 laser tube. The tube requires a flow of room temperature (or cooler) water to regulate the temperature of the resonance chamber. You purchased either the radiator water chiller (which cycles water at room temperature) or the advanced refrigerated water chiller (which cools the water to a constant temperature). Regardless of which system you have, both are easy to install.ā
Those laser tubes, which are 10-15% efficient, can produce as much as 900 Watts of heat. A spindle would have to be cutting at 900 Watts to generate that much heat. Thatās not possible on Shapeokos. So, at āroom temperaturesā either a CW3000 (āPassive Water Chillerā) or CW5000 (āActive Water Chillerā) should suffice.
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Allright,
So I received the light dimmer,
then fired up the Dremel, I wonāt post images of the chiller front panel suffering, but
Voila, manual fan control :
which is more than welcome:
I have adjusted the fan speed to the minimal RPM where I can barely hear it / where it competes with the pump for noise. I will redo the temperature monitoring next time I have a long cut planned.
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Voltaic Voodoo, cool (pun intended) and amazing!
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Quick update: I ran a ~2 hour job today, with the fan dialed to be barely audible above the pump, and got these results:
Ambiant temperature was 26Ā°C / 79Ā°F
Thatās more than suitable for my typical use, and the sound level is back to a discrete humming. Iāll call this done for now.
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and if it has an alarm for overtemp, you can always crank the fan up based on that
It does have an alarm, but it goes off at 60Ā°C / 140Ā°F, so not so useful because I assume the spindle would have died before reaching that coolant temperature.
I also know that the other alarm (detecting the absence of coolant flow) works fine, I discovered that when I unintentionally pinched the tube and had a near heart-attack when it beeped (the alarm is LOUD, as it should be)
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Are you planning a test with the fan full blast?
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Sure, can do (next time I have a long job to run).
It will be so much fun to have it 73dB during 5 hours, yay!
Surely your router/spindle makes more noise then that when hacking stock?
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Hey thatās a good question, I never actually measured the spindle. But itās quite different, itās the sweet sweet sound of making chips, I crave that!
Seriously though, itās more the sum of semi-loud devices that gets on my nerves (that @$*&#! VFD fan, the muffled sound of the vacuum under the enclosure, the chiller, and optionally the washing machine and dryer nearby)
By the way, I had a wild shower thought (literally) the other day, I could extend the cooling circuit to go through the VFD sink. Water-cooled VFD !
Yeah I know how it sounds (dangerous), but I wonder if I could just use a PC water-cooling [part that goes on the CPU] and attach it to the back of the humongous VFD sink. It would be away from the power area, and in the unlikely event of a leak, gravity would do its job and not soak the inside of the VFD.
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Well with that said Iām surprised you havenāt re-wired your VFD fan to only come on when it heats upā¦
You are either mad or have too much time on your hands 
I gave up on trying to cut the noise out. Now I just wear noise cancelling headphones - after you have a compressor, VFD and spindle going itās the only way to win a loosing battle, other than locking everything in a cupboardā¦
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That was my first intentā¦and then I saw in that video that you have to tear the whole thing apart, and decided that it would be for another day.
Good pointā¦I should try one of those.
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I know the sounds are annoying but the human senses alert you to danger. When I sit on my big lawn mower it is tempting to listen to music but if my mower deck starts making a racket I need to stop it before too much damage is done. Same in the shop. Music is fine for sanding but when doing things where I can lose a finger the music is off and my attention is focused on the task.
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Odd that he didnāt just use some thermally conductive epoxy to attach the thermal switches to the heatsink! The fan likely would rarely, if ever, turn on.
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