Hello, I have been working with 1" thick boards since some weeks ago without any problems (I feel a lot confident with my machine, just look this beautiful cat that my machine created):
But a question is bothering me…
Let’s say I want to use a Whiteside 1/4 up-cut RU2100 that has 1 inch of cut length and 2-1/2 overall length.
Could I do a cut as deep as 2" (and a little bit longer since there is still space before the wood touches the router collet), or do I need a bit with longer cutting depht in order to do this kind of work?
The problem w/ deeper cuts is the shank will rub which can lead to friction which causes heat. Whether or no this is a problem depends on material and toolpath geometry.
Some folks will relieve an endmill shaft (doesn’t take too much to prevent rubbing), and we sell one such shaft:
Like Will said, you’ll burn up wood sidewalls with shank contact. Always good to use the same length of flute as your straight sidewall height, just makes it easy. You might want to look into bigger diameter tooling as 1/4 can get pretty flexible at those stick outs. Another option is running up to a 8mm/0.375" tool which would perform much better at those lengths.
That C3D tool is only relieved up to 1" I believe but there are other tools you can buy that have a longer length or are totally relieved.
For a more DIY approach there is always a diamond wheel
There’s also an easy solution: add a very slight vertical angle to your walls. That way the shank won’t touch. It can be so small that it’s invisible to human eyes but still so the job.
Really? I’m searching for a solution. I use Vcarve… Are you familiarized with this software or know a videotutorial talking about this in particular so I can take a look? Thanks.
Best I can say is that if you’re VCarving a bitmap, I’d add a slight gradient to the image anywhere you have sharp, deep edges. The gradient will become a slope, which is what you want. You might need to dial up the resolution to something ridiculous to get a really steep wall though.
Yes. I ruined two all day carves by pushing an endmill too far out of the collet. They bend and send the machine where it should not go. Far cheaper to buy the correct bits. Nice cat carve.
Hi. Thank you and really sorry about your loss, that sounds really dangerous… Could you please recommend some 1/4 bits for a 2" wood job? I can only find with 1" of cut length or longer but specialized for other materials like metals. Thanks.
I actually have not solved that dilemma. Sorry. I was referring to “cheating” the cutting surface by not inserting the RU2100 deep enough into the collet. The flex in the tool caused the bit to run off course, destroying the piece. twice. This on profile cuts to cut through the stock and finish the piece. I no longer attempt to do that…that is what a band saw is for. I don’t see much of a problem using the same tool on a roughing pass in the 3d work that I do, but I honestly don’t carve very much 2" stock…
