Depth problems shapeoko xxl

(George Wing) #1

hello. in need of some help.i have an xxl this years model.no matter what depth I set up it keep cutting down all the way . i have to shut it down to stop .needless to say I haven’t made anything .another problem came up today .after Im set up and all zerod in I start run and z axis goes up to top and starts kind of like hoping in a way . then finally comes down.it does not do this when homing .I did download the new beta version of carbide create .But I’ve had t he depth problem from the go. Ive had other issues which I fixed .he first thing I did when I got the machine going was v carve a name and it came out nice , but I had to shut it down because it went back to make deeper cuts. Id appreciate some advice . TY.

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(William Adams) #2

Usually difficulties such as you describe are a disconnect in how the machine has home set relative to the stock. Please see:

If that’s not it, it’s probably mechanical:

​It is also important to be sure that the collet is correctly tightened, the endmill fits correctly and doesn’t slip, and the router is mounted securely in the mount, and that the mount doesn’t shift. Note than endmill pullout can happen gradually, especially when profiling against tall walls.[4]

Also feeds and speeds may be a consideration: https://docs.carbide3d.com/support/#tooling-support and see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9bceJxpqG0 for concepts on this and https://www.precisebits.com/tutorials/calibrating_feeds_n_speeds.htm for a testing technique and see the series #MaterialMonday: #MaterialMonday on YouTube

Beyond that it’s usually a matter of ​Calibration and Squaring the Machine c.f., http://docs.carbide3d.com/shapeoko-faq/how-to-calibrate-the-machine-for-belt-stretch/

If you continue to have difficulty, please post:

  • source file
  • generated G-Code
  • step-by-step description of how you are securing your stock and setting zero relative to it
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(George Wing) #3

thank you Will for getting back to me. I appreciate that. My machine is set up as should be and describe in the videos. I home the machine, jog to my start point then do z axis by touching a piece of paper. Then zero all. go to run click on right for job hit start.it goes to the start position as should then boom, starts cut but goes way past the depth entered and heads towards bottom of stock. Ive watched these videos over and over again to see if Im doing something wrong but do it as the video shows. I took care of a million dollar egg processing machine for 23 years. which consisted of mechanical timing , electrical timing, etc. so I do understand intermittent problems can be a pain. another of beat question, why do they not have a stop bumper on z axis. what happened to me because of the depth issue is the cutter went so deep the z axis came off breaking v wheels. I`ve issues from the get go. Had some warped v wheels, some holes off centered so I had to re drill ,had to use shims to square gantry, one of the y plates warped, bed homing switch, then after the motor flew off I found the two steps motors x and z had loose screws. little discouraging when you see people set up and no issues. I got to say carbide sent me a new switch and v wheels at no charge and over night. Excellent service. This machine is well built and if need another in future would by again and recommend it to anyone, I just want to get it fixed so I can makes projects. Will is there some values I can check to see if ones out of whack. thanks again for your help…

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(Neil Ferreri) #4

@Rooster How thick is your stock?
How are you generating gcode?
Have you checked that Z axis pulley?

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(William Adams) #5

Please post the source file, generated G-Code and instructions on how you are setting things up.

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(George Wing) #6

hi. my stock is .698 inches thick. I`m generating code through toolpath after creating object to be carved. yes my z axis is quitar string tight.

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(George Wing) #7

Hi Will, Im not exactly sure.<a class="attachment" href="/uploads/default/original/3X/1/f/1f94cb34eb81bda1d42482a72bb34b869b37e5ec.nc">newone44.nc</a> (15.6 KB) I believe I erased the g- code for that file. setting up, I nail my work to the waste board for now , I then home , jog to selected start , calibrate z axis with touching of paper with bit in , zero all , then go to run, also when Im creating in cc if I want to erase an object ctl z or esc doesn’t work, I have to reopen project. TY again for your time.

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(George Wing) #8

I do nail my work down for now.

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(William Adams) #9

To delete an object use Delete.

Please post a matching set of:

  • source file
  • generated G-Code
  • full description of how you secure the stock set home relative to it
  • photo of the cut gone wrong
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(George Wing) #10

hi Will this is the project I set up yesterday. The bit was going to go all the way through again.surtface.c2d (4.8 KB)
surfacegcode.nc (2.6 KB)

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(George Wing) #11

I believe either the values must be sensing something different. I checked wiring it looks good. like I said this was from the get go. but the z plate wasn’t going up and ramming the fixed plate at first like it is now. I think if the fixed plate wasn’t there it would fly off just like it does going down.

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(William Adams) #12

Your retract height in Job Setup (gear icon) | Machine is set to 8 inches — please reduce to something reasonable.

What’s happening is it’s lifting up, hitting the top, grinding against the top stop, then it thinks it’s 8" above the surface and tries to plunge that deep.

0.125 inches is a lot of plunge for a 1 inch wide endmill — please take just a bit off with each pass — see Wasteboard Plans with threads — usually when tramming one wants to take 0.1mm off with each pass, and hopefully ultimately to have taken less than 0.5mm off in total.

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(George Wing) #13

ty Will, I didn’t realize that was in inches. watching video I thought that the safe height was ten, not thinking inches. what would you call a reasonable retract height to go by. TY very much for your help I will give this a go. Have a great weekend.George

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(William Adams) #14

I believe the default is 10mm — half an inch or so feels excessive, 1mm may be too little — this also depends on if one needs to clear clamps and so forth (since it will lift to retract height before heading to the back of the machine at the end of the file.

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(George Wing) #15

Thanks again. much appreciated.

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