Desk name plate, and the power went out *Finished Product Inside*

Actually we’ve found that using a UPS is a good way to insulate the EDITED: computer from EMI from the machine. (see @mbellon’s post below)

Will, that interests me. Do you have a link to the wiki page that describes this and contains minimum/recommended sizes of UPS devices?

It was mentioned on a couple of tech support e-mails (did I mention that one of the first things I did after getting hired to do tech support was to read through every previous e-mail?)

and here:

I’m not Will, but I’ve been using this:

So far it’s been pretty good. I run my desktop PC, 24" monitor, XXL, and the Dewalt with SuperPID and haven’t had any issues with disconnects. I power my vacuum separately though, it just draws too much with everything else combined. I’ve pulled the plug with everything running and everything kept going, although I didn’t time it and run it dead. I did some research before I started though for a work project. We bought the super duper big brother version of this to power a commercial grade large format 3D printer(meter by meter by 1/2 meter build envelope),…nice getting paid to research work stuff and learning home shop stuff at the same time. I’m not superoelectronico, but I recall that this UPS outputs a true sine wave, which is supposed to keep electronics more happier(smarter people please jump in here)? I can’t say it’s the best thing since sliced bread, but it works and I’ve been happy with it.


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Motors generate “hash” on power lines. The “hash” is particularly detrimental to computers and quite a few computer power supplies.

The ideal solution is to have a CNC machine motor on a separate “leg” than the rest of the equipment. By “leg” I mean a socket that goes back to the site distribution box and has its own circuit breaker. Completely isolate the motor power from the rest of the equipment.

Often, this is impractical or too expensive for hobbyists or those working at home. The best solution when one cannot have a separate leg is to isolate the computer equipment from the motor. This can be done with a high quality power conditioner or a UPS. A UPS is often the least expensive solution.

This solution assumes that the sockets are properly connected, no ground/neutral mistakes. If you don’t have one, get the AC power checker - they are cheap - and check the sockets. If they aren’t connected properly, get an electrician to fix the problem. Don’t mess with the wiring unless you are absolutely sure you know what you’re doing!

The UPS should power the computer equipment through the battery backed up sockets. Don’t use the filtered sockets if the UPS has them! The battery backed up sockets go through circuitry that provides excellent power conditioning.

NEVER plug a motor into a UPS - at least the ones that most of us can afford - as UPSen are just not designed for this.

In this application, the battery backup - allowing the computer to power down gently after the loss of AC power - is the minor choice.

If possible, chose a UPS that offers true sine wave output.

In the post that @WillAdams points to, I reference the power conditioners and UPSen that I use for my customers.