This is a multi layered cut. First level is .125 and second level is .25.
When I change from my 1/4 clearing bit to my 1/16 bit, the depths are off. The 1/16” bit cuts just a little bit deeper. I checked my toolpaths and they are all the same for both levels.
In addition to Jeff’s suggestions, and since you are using a BitSetter, also make sure you aren’t ever putting an endmill into the collet at any time when there is no prompt telling you to do so.
In particular, manually changing an endmill (ie: when not prompted) and then setting the Z zero does not work with a BitSetter.
Jeff,
I have done some of these things already. (Belt tension, v-wheel tension)
I will work on making sure all nuts and bolts are tight and pulley wheels are tight.
I have had this problem for the last few weeks. I bought better bits thinking that might be the problem. The first one I cut yesterday had very minimal of the depth issue so I thought it was fixed. However when I cut the second one with a different last name, the problem returned.
I am using V-Carve Pro. I will send in to support to explain the process and include the files.
Gerry, I have only been changing the bit when asked to. I never zero in the middle of the cut.
When I put the bits in, they are usually snug, so I push it in and it will stay. Then I put the small wrench in place and hold it still, I then tighten the nut with just the larger wrench.
Both bits are 1/4 shank so I haven’t been removing the collet between bits. I could give that a try.
Using a hand on each wrench makes it more likely that you move the router resulting in ‘lost’ steps; the single hand method is less likely to inadvertently move something.
I must take issue with this. The bit going further into the router should not be the fallback safety feature. Properly tightened, the bit should not be able to be rammed in before the Z axis loses steps. I think in general the reason you don’t want to shove tools all the way in, whether a drill bit in a chuck, endmill, etc, is that you don’t want to introduce any sideways forces on the tool that will cause misalignment, runout, etc. Having the collet pull in the tool naturally, without having to fight the endstop, is the best bet. The endstop, if it’s purely axial, is not too bad. But if it is uneven or imperfect (for instance the ends of top of drill bits don’t have a perfect chamfer), that can cause some degree of misalignment, runout, improper gauge of the tightening torque, etc.
Okay, the torches have been put out and mob has been dispersed.
I’ve heard plenty of pigheaded things, some of them by technicians with 25 or 30 years on the job. I’m glad this was just a communications issue; I may have read a bit too much into your words as well.
If you think about it, the .250 bit will have more ‘up’ force than the 1/16" bit just because it is cutting more.
I would try doing the clearing pass, and then redo the clearing pass. The second pass would be cutting less wood and may clear better. Then do the 1/16" bit pass… These machines aren’t perfect and will have a little give.
Or maybe try an up cut bit for the clearing pass which may have the effect of pulling the bit down.