Does anyone know how to wire up an outlet so that the router can be killed when the E-Stop is pressed on Shapeoko 5?

I am wiring up new table and would prefer not to have separate emergency switches for the router and the Shapeoko machine if possible.

The Shapeoko 5 comes standard with an emergency stop but it is pre-wired in a harness back to the controller that appears you cannot access the internals without breaking rivets.

There are auxillary headers which leads me to (hope) that I can power a dedicated circuit off of the controller that the included e-stop will kill, when pressed along with the machine.

I’m using the Kreg 64 x 64 table and plan have all of my controls on the front right faceplate of the table. With LED back-lit rocker switches dedicated for the main controller (1), Dust Collection (2), and currently the router circuit on (3).

The problem is if there is an emergency, the table will stop but the router is still going.

I feel the answer is going to be purchase a PWM kit or buy a spindle. To which I have plans to do down the road after the initial purchase pain wears off, but in the meantime I figured I’d ask the experts here and see if anyone else has thought about this?

That’s what the circuitry for the BitRunner is for/will do.

Is using that not an option?

Alternately, would a current-sensing switch which would detect that the unit itself is powered up be an option?

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Hey Will,

Thanks for the quick reply!

I had not previously considered the Bit Runner. To be completely honest, I must skipped over that on your product page.

I do have spare Shelly1PMs laying around and could install that in the circuit to fire off the relay when it detects the load on the controller is off.

I think out of an abundance of caution, I wanted that to be a secondary fail safe and was hoping that I could go with an option that didn’t have to hit my Home Assistant server.

I think I’ll go with my original plan of hardwiring the 3rd switch with a Shelly relay as an IOT failsafe.

If the BitSetter route doesn’t do it for you, can’t you just wire an emergency cutoff to the circuit before both the router and Shapeoko plug in?
Something simple like this?:


That’s the first I’ve heard of a Shelly1PM. I think you would find the Bitrunner to be more usefull in the long run. I do use a Wyze brand camera and wifi enable plug for my 3D printer. Kind of handy for those long prints, but having a wifi enabled router control, that just seems to be asking for Murphy to stir things up for you.

Like @GJM drew above I have this device which is a magnetic switch and emergency stop switch.

This devices gives me two modes of protection. The first is if the lights go out and come back on the machine is shut down and will not unexpectedly come back on until I push the on button. The second thing it does is gives me an emergency stop if needed. Trying to find the STOP button on a computer screen would seem to be to be counter productive if an emergency STOP is required. I do not want to be searching for the stop when it is a true emergency.

My magnetic emergency stop switch had an outlet that plugs into it and the other end goes to the wall outlet. So my Shapeoko and router are on the power strip and both are controlled by the power switch.

I recently saw an advertisement for a switch like Gary posted above that is a magnetic one. I get so much advertising that I cannot remember who sent it but I am sure you can find it with a short search.

Unless a 20 Amp circuit and E-stop switch are used, 15 Amp outlets (or a power strip) should be used rather than the 20 Amp outlets shown.

@gmack Agreed…I was just grabbing web screen shots to throw together the diagram - I did choose to avoid a GFCI plug! That said, my shop’s outlet loops are all 20A circuits with 12ga wire… a little overkill I put in there to help avoid overloads when using multiple tools. Also - the problem isn’t putting a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit (the worst you’ll do is trip the circuit when you plug in a 20A device), it’s putting a 20A breaker on 14ga wiring!

@gdon_2003 Guy, Apparently, you have to be careful which mag switch you get your hands on - they’re not all the same. When I was researching my solution, I got a magnetic switch that looked a lot like the one you pictured, and it would not support my router’s start-up. I don’t know the electronic reason, but I’m sure someone out there does. I guess the key is, be careful, they may look alike, but they’re not all alike.

@GJM check this out. This is how I was planning on wiring it up.

@Steve.Mc While I agree smart devices shouldn’t be relied on for safety, I have these strung up all trhough my house and they are designed to be smart relays and live in the junction box.

When power is detected on Shelly1PM “A”, a message is delivered through MQTT that says “circuit A: Shapeoko” is live.

I would never have an automation turn on my router.

Rocker switch “B” would turn the circuit B on, which would turn on the router. Shelly1PM “B” can then detect if Shelly1A has power or not. If it detects power, and then loses it for any reason, it can turn the relay “off”, which then will immediately turn off the power to the router, regardless of what the rocker switch position is.

This is all hosted locally and not though a cloud service, so the timing is within milliseconds. Still not a 100% solution to rely on, but great as a failsafe. You can still turn the router on or off via the rocker switch and the shellys act as a backup. If for whatever reason the power to the shapeoko is turned off, a MQTT message is sent to the other shelly telling it to cut power to it’s load.

Quite diffrent than most off the shelf smart switches, outlets, bulbs, etc. The shelly stays powered and live, talking to the home automation server regardless of the end devices power state.

@gdon_2003, With the Shelly, I can set it to default state of “off” if power failure is detected.

The problem is that, unlike 15A receptacles, 20A receptacles accept 20A plugs. (NEC code violation)

Motor startup and stall currents are typically 4-5 times higher than their rated run currents. An E-Stop switch properly rated for a 15A motor (like decent router table power switches) should be able to handle that. But, unlike a magnetic switch, that type of switch will allow motors to re-start when externally interrupted power is restored. Here’s an adequately rated magnetic switch..

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