Hello, I am new to CNC operation and have just placed my order for a Shapeoko XL.
One of my first jobs waiting for this equipment are shaped plastic name badges with beveled edges and inlayed aluminum disks that I will sublimate.
Question: If I create a matrix something like this:
would I first mill down the circles for the inlays, then use a 45 deg bit to carve the outlines approximately half way through the plastic to create the bevel and then use a straight bit to cut all the way through the plastic?
Pretty tall order for a guy who has never used a CNC??
Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Don
I “think” I will be using 3 tools for this job and 3 steps per sheet of material?
1/4" straight end mill for the recessed inner circle
45 deg bevel half way through the 1/16" thick material
1/8" straight end mill to make the final outside profile cut
I anticipate a matrix of maybe 9 or 12 up on 10 sheets of material. It seems obvious to me that I need to leave each sheet on the board until all 3 steps are complete because of the close tolerance of the circle to the edge.
How do I tell the software to stop the machine for a tool change -and- are the tool shanks the same height so that I don’t need to re-calibrate between tool changes.
Hi Jerry… thanks for your suggestion. I had thought of this approach, but this is a laminate plastic of two colors and the bevel would be too wide and as you said, the edges would be sharp.
Don
We all were beginners once — most of us learn enough to move past that, me, I’m eternally stuck there, and use the wiki as a crib notes / cheat sheet trying to keep stuff straight (sometimes it even works).
In Carbide Create, a tool change is generated whenever a succeeding toolpath uses a different tool than the preceding one — that’s why it’s important to appropriately name and organize your toolpaths. Many folks will export them separately, into different files, but Carbide Motion will interpret properly structured tool change commands so as to allow one to have them in a single file.
I have done quite a bit of work with this type of material. Extra care needs to be taken with your Z height for good results.
You will have to carefully zero it after each tool change and make sure that your table is very flat and consistent. If possible tram the waste board and use a Z-Probe.
I use double sided tape to hold down the material with good results. This way tabs are not required so you can get a nice cut edge.
I’ve been wondering about these for a while, and wondered if anyone ever used one.
This one is pricey, but I’ve also saw free plans to build ones own with a cnc.
I had an Idea for magnetic sheets awhile back.
