If that is to extend the USB cable past 6’ — please don’t — we recommend no more than 6’ of length.
Great,
Being flexible about how you mount stuff is what I’ve found to be key, I recently made my Shapeoko pretend to be a little milling machine 
I’m in the process of putting M4 threaded inserts in the baseboard for the T Tracks to replace the self tapping screws I optimisically used to hold them in the first time round…
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Hi @WillAdams,
Nope, it’s not. I’ve connected the supplied cable from within the cabinet to an external socket, and I’ll use a short lead to connect it to my laptop.
Thanks for the pointer, though 
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Awesome! Aren’t the self-tapping screws very good for securing the t-track, then?
I looked at the link to the 3d koi you provided.
The guy’s a genius!
Nope, they kinda suck 
I bought a bag of M4 inserts from Amazon (the usual SourcingMap cheap ones) and drilled out all the self tapping holes for the inserts and then put M4 x 12 countersunk small bolts though and they’re holding much better. Also, I can take the tracks out and refit them without weakening the screw fixings.
The Koi maker is on here too, he’s posted some great tutorials on how he does his stuff;
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@LiamN, I’m confused.
Did you mean you bought the inserts then drilled out the threads out of them to use the countersunk screws, or did you just use screws into the threaded insert?
Sorry if I’m being a bit slow here 
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Ah, sorry,
I meant that I initially used no 4 x 3/4 self tapping wood screws to screw the T tracks down to the baseboard but those tended to let go when I tightened up clamps.
So I removed the self tapping screws and drilled the holes in the baseboard out sufficiently to fit the M4 threaded inserts into it and then use M4 countersunk machine screws to bolt the T tracks down into the inserts and that’s been much better.
You still have to be a bit careful about gorrila tightening the clamps as MDF is just not very strong but it’s much better.
Ah, now that makes sense
I was wondering if you wouldn’t mind having a look at my proposal for my ‘waste’ board (attached), although I don’t want to cut down to it too often!
The thing I’m concerned about is the end mill I’m using, which has a cut depth of 0.05", but as the flutes are the same diameter as the shank, I changed the cut depth to 0.2" per pass. Would this be OK, do you think?
I haven’t added the holes for the tracks, because I don’t know the centres, yet
Thank you.
Petes Version Actual.c2d (519.0 KB)
Just downloading CC so I can look at.
Not sure I understand on the end mill, got a link to it?
Right, looking at the design, do you have a table or track saw or is the Shapeoko your best tool for making a straight cut?
Actually, I’ve realised that not suitable for wood, as it’s an upcut. I’m thinking of using this: https://www.inventables.com/technologies/solid-carbide-2-flute-straight-end-mill instaed.
No, I don’t have either. The best I have is a router table or a circular saw, so the Shapeoko is probably the better option.
Wait, I have a table saw (sorry, I was thinking of something else). It’s a Bosch GTS10XC
Upcuts are generally useful on a CNC as they pull the chips up out of the cut where they can be extracted instead of overheating the cutter and workpiece. I’ve used quite a range of 1/4" generic upcuts from;
and
https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/routing-engraving.html
APT has some nice single flute Aluminium cutters and ships really quickly, the post from Rennie takes a few days.
Both of those vendors do upcut, compression etc. a good variety. I’ve also used dovetail cutters from Axminster (they actually match the angle written on the box), a whole load of Trend cutters (chamfer, cove cutters etc.). If you can describe the tool shape to your CAD then most router cutters are likely suitable for something.
So, you’re using a 1/8" to bore the holes for the inserts?
I’d go with a 1/4" to cut the slots for the T tracks, the bigger the bit you can use generally the better, so long as the slot / hole is bigger than the bit (with 20%-50% extra space is best).
Ah nice, the better version to my GTS10J 
What I did was to saw the MDF into straight strips on my table saw that fit between where I’d installed the rails, the table saw is way faster at straight cuts than the CNC.
I’m not very good with CC but looking at the design but, it looks like you’ve got those insert holes on a regular spacing across the whole machine, just missing a step over the tracks? (I got that wrong and will fix it next time I replace the spoil board)
Having the two outside tracks inboard of the edge definitely makes sense, mine are at the far outside and are a giant pain to clamp with, whilst trying to avoid blocking the Y carriage plates.
For the overall dimension are you using the whole area of the spoilboard or just the addressable cutting area of the machine?
EDIT - I just checked and it looks like you’re running 812x812 for this board (32"x32") which is the total reach of the cutter, but not all of it is above the bed of the machine, the cutting space extends forward of the front metal plate by a few cm which means you can’t reach the back of the baseboard with the cutter. I fell down that hole with the first spoilboard and have a bump at the back where I can’t level it with the cutter.
Hmm, I was probably a bit (haha) dazzled with the bits offered when I bought the CNC, so I haven’t really looked elsewhere, yet. Perhaps I should…
I was planning to use the 1/8" for the holes, but it makes sense to use the larger bit for the tracks.
Assuming CM will notify me when the bit needs to be changed, is it possible to change the order of the toolpaths in CC (I couldn’t see how to do that) to limit the number of tool changes, and I assume I would need to reset zero for the second end milll, or is there a better way of running the project?
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The Carbide3D bits seem pretty good quality to me, good wear life and finish, you can get them from robotshop if you don’t want to pay shipping from the US.
At 5hrs for the toolpath, I’d go with the table saw and recess the T tracks below the surface of this board.
I’m sure you can, but I don’t know how to use CC very well, might I ask for some help @Julien please?
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Actually, changing the bit to the supplied 1/4" end mill (No 201) reduced the cutting time to 18 minutes!
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Spending more time learning CAM to optimise machining than actually machining is an early trap, even more so when cutting metal.
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I’m learning every aspect as I go!
I just looked at the link you provided for bit suppliers and can’t believe there are so many different types and sizes of V bit, for crying out loud!
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