Flood Coolant with a Nomad 3?

Might seem like a crazy idea, but has anyone tried flood coolant, or have any suggestions/issues to watch out for? I was thinking I could use a shallow tank under the Nomad to catch chips/coolant. I’d also need to seal near the front and rear of the machine to make sure the coolant only goes through the Y axis slots (or as much as possible). Maybe a small tank with slots internal to the Nomad as well to reduce mess. Not a lot of flow, just a bit for lubrication.

I’m not planning on repumping the coolant while cutting (I’d just pour off the used coolant/filter it and pour back into a coolant reservoir), so that also seems like it’d simplify things (I’m not sure if that’s realistic, but my cuts aren’t normally very long, and like I said, I’m aiming for dribble more than blast)? I currently have a Loc-Line system setup for air blast that I was planning on using for the flood coolant. Basically, just add a water filter filled with coolant and use my shop air pressure (regulated down) to push it through the Loc-Line.

Main reasoning behind this is to reduce cutting forces/reduce noise/improve surface finish while cutting aluminum. I’m also considering IPA mist coolant or just drip/spraying with WD40, but I can’t get this idea out of my head.

Thanks all!

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Usually the way folks have done this is to either bolt a container in place (w/ washers and so forth) and filled that, or built a dam around the part and put coolant in there:

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Thanks Will! I have seen that (and other dam styles).

Since I already have the air line setup, I’m wondering if flood coolant would be more flexible/versitile than having to add a dam every time I cut something.

Are there other concerns with an approach like this? Would something on the underside of the Nomad be unhappy about seeing coolant? I guess I’m just asking because it seems like it’d be a pretty slick upgrade for the Nomad and I’m a bit surprised I haven’t seen anyone else try it (thus my question) :slight_smile:

Bottom line up front: Do not do this.

Coolant should not be allowed to go beyond the boundaries of the table. EVER. The electronics underneath the cover are not resistant to liquid intrusion, and even if you think coolant will drip straight down, it has an uncanny way of wicking or hanging under surfaces and following wires. You could short the stepper motor, tool length probe, and Y axis homing switch.

Additionally, unless you keep up with lubrication, you’re risking the bearings and leadscrews for the Z axis and spindle forming rust as some liquid will inevitably splash upwards. If you do use the coolant pan method, wipe everything down afterwards.

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Fair enough! I think I’ll try out a drip system using IPA or WD40 instead (or just use a spray bottle). Thanks Winston and Will for the help!

Sigh, this is what I get for watching too many videos of giant machines chewing through aluminum at ridiculous MRRs :smiley:

There are a lot of posts on the forum about misting. Have you tried that. With a mist you get a lot less volume but accomplishes the same thing. Some use the WD40, alcohol and other things like just plain water.

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TBH, using just compressed air helps a TON. You get 2 out of the 3 benefits of coolant, and it helps a lot with reliability of long programs.

✓ - Chip Evacuation
✓ - Cooling
X - Lubrication

Just don’t use so much compressed air that you create a whirlwind inside the enclosure and cause fine particles and chips to rain down on the bearings and electronics. Chip re-cutting is the single biggest hassle in desktop machines, and compressed air helps a lot in that regard. Sometimes you hear ugly grind-y kinds of noises coming from an aluminum cut. That all* goes away with air.

*Not counting stuff caused by abrupt cutter engagement in material, corners, etc.

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I’ll second the mister option with really light isopropyl alcohol.

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