G-wizard Calculator settings for Shaepoko 3 XXL and Makita Router?

Anyone here know where to find these settings?



I would think that you could pick the version with the Dewalt router and just adjust the max/min speed then save it. I have the Dewalt, but I also have a SuperPID which allows greater RPM range (5000-30,000RPM) and that is how I did it.



I have CNC Cookbook, and have been learning about it.
I have the Makita and some technical details about it.
Modifying it with a SuperPID isn’t something that I can do at the moment, but I did read about it, thanks for that.
So, I’ll continue to research CNC Cookbook and forums to see what bubbles up.

Thank you!

I’m not sure if I explained it right. I believe the only thing you would have to do is pick the regular SO3 with Dewalt setting, then change the max/min speed to match your router (10,000min, 30,000max). Other than that they should be similar enough. You could always email CNC Cookbook support and ask if that would be a viable solution as well. No SuperPID needed, I only mentioned it because that’s how I configured GWizard to work with my modified router with the larger RPM envelope.

Hope that helps,


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I started to try and adjust those settings in CNC Cookbook. I’m seeing some huge deflection values that I am not able to readjust yet.
I’m thinking that the stickout might be the big challenge, about 2.1 inches (due to geometry), shaft OD .25", ball end mill of 0.625".
Maybe, a 3/8" collet and cutting tool would help with that and a lower spindle speed, and this is where the SuperPID might be needed?
Alternatively, the sheets could be individually milled before gluing together, but I worry that the glue interface might become an issue, where the glue will squeeze into the mold region along that interface and then dry, leaving an artifact that will pull out the particle board along that interface. I would have to create locating holes for dowels though so that the milled sections would align.
Well that is about as far as I can strategize at the moment. Ill contact CNC Cookbook next.

2.1" of stickout is pretty huge, but I know people successfully use very long bits. Is that a 0.0625" ball or 0.625" ball, as in 5/8"? I’m not in front of a computer with GWizard installed at the moment so I can’t see exactly what that looks like. Is it possible to just use a 1/4" ball and do a few more passes? The glue thing would concern me the same way. I’m not sure what you’re molding, but if I think of molds for fiberglass or CF they tend to need to be super smooth or have a texture applied that is supposed to be part of the molded product, I would probably apply some sort of finish first then hand sand down to the required smoothness so small voids would get filled anyways? I do model RC gliders, most with molded CF wings/fuselages/tails and I know those molds are like glass before they do a lay up, not a finish you’re going to attain without some sort of final finishing. Interested to see what you come up with.


I know, that stickout seems like a lot.
It’s a 0.0625" ball end. I want to rough out a lot first with a 1/4" cutter with lots of passes.
Then change tools carefully and finish it with the 1/16" cutter. Is there a trick for changing the stickout length of tools? Or is it another setup and Id have to “0” everything again?

The mold will be filled with a type of elastomer, then clamped. Surface finish isn’t a high priority and this will be handed off to someone to finish the cavity as needed. After that the parts will still have flashing carved off manually, its not the level of detail needed for RC wings.
This is for a prototype part, so it can be a little rough (subjective). The issue comes down to details, feature size, the average small feature is 1mm round, but 1/16" will be close enough for this. It would affect performance of the part noticeably if changed, and so that is why that small cutter is desired.

2.1" stick out with a 1/16" ball seems really long to me, but I’m no expert. Is there some reason for that much stick out, like is it a deep mold where you don’t have router clearance? I would run it as two separate jobs as there’s no really good repeatable way to rezero between tool changes. If you have the router clearance then adjust the stick out as shallow in your router as possible and that should cure the deflection issues. There’s a really good article on the CNC Cookbook website in the beginners section that explains stick out versus deflection fairly well, unfortunately I don’t have the link handy right now;-(


Yes, it is a deep mold, approximately 2.05" at the deepest region. The part is very organic and has some tall sides with plenty of draft, similar to an i-beam in cross section. There are a few fine features deep in the pocket that are the ends of the parallel sides, but these features would be the last ones and probably in the finishing operation (little bit of material), definitely not the rough cut. These features taper on both sides, they are what is causing these questions to arise. All of the other features are rather shallow in comparison. I will also be creating a manual insert for a large area of overhang.

The plan is to run several operations:
Surface + location features
Rough out material with 0.25" ball nose
Finish (pencil finish as needed) with a tapered 1/16" ball nose (0.25" shank OD) My thinking is that a carbide 0.25" shank will be more stable and less prone to deflection than a cutter with a smaller shank OD.

The parallel features of the i-beam have quite a bit of draft, but not enough to allow the router to go below the top surface of the stock. Even so, the 0.25" ball nose cutter will need to stickout 2.10" too.

This brings me too the idea of surfacing the sheets as precisely as possible, in CAD I would slice the part into sections, then in CAM make individual layers of the cavity. After Machining the layers separately they would finally be very carefully glued together to create one side of the mold. The other side, the core, would be relatively easy compared to the cavity side.

It occurred to me that the mold could be made differently, with more parts, to create something similar to side pulls. These would eliminate the need for worrying about the cutter depth issues. I could glue the sides onto ends to create the cavity. This would make many issues go away… so many possibilities!

Anyway, thanks for your advice and have a good nights rest!

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Sounds like you’re thinking “out of the box”, literally, haha! Glad if I could be of some help. Here’s the CNC Cookbook article about deflection I mentioned:



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