Grounding Dewalt DWP611 Spindle for Probe?

Has anyone grounded the spindle of your Dewalt DWP611 so you can probe without attaching a ground wire to your bit?

I should mention before I get responses on this, you cannot ground the body of the router… there is no continuity between the router body and spindle. I attached my wire to this screw, which gave me ground to the whole outside body, but no ground whatsoever on the spindle.

Before I go tearing my whole router apart trying to find a spot that will give me a solid ground to the spindle (bearings maybe), I’d like to see if anyone else has done it with success.

Thanks in advance!

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The router is double insulated. You need a clip/magnet to the spindle to probe.

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Sooo, since I’m impatient and when I get something in my mind, I have to fulfill it before I move on, I went ahead and ripped the router apart. :smile: The easiest way I could see of getting ground to the spindle, was to, don’t gasp, solder a wire to the bearing :laughing:. I know, I know… probably not the best ground, plus it’s a little rigged in the router, but it seems to have worked!

*Notice … NO GROUND WIRE!!! :grin:

Here are some pictures of the hack job:

Soldered wire to the outer race of the top spindle bearing ^

Ground wire coming out of the drilled hole in the bearing housing ^
(I made sure it was in a portion of the cover that didn’t support the bearing)

All wired up, looking somewhat neat!


Will the soldering heat shorten the life of the bearing?

Quite possibly. Soldering isn’t much heat at all though, so I doubt it softened the metal or warped it very much at all. I did not measure runout before & after, but I probably should have… oh well. All said, I would do it again. The convenience is amazing! :smiley:

You might want to put some new lube in the bearing to replace what got overheated in the soldering?

edit - assuming it’s not a dry bearing to start with

It’s a sealed bearing, I’m not overly-concerned about it. Flash point of bearing grease is around 450 F, and I don’t think I got it that hot.

What kind of iron, solder and flux did you use? I’m interested to know how much dwell time was required to ensure not getting a cold solder joint.

Another idea is to just friction fit the wire strands between the plastic housing and bearing outer race without using solder.

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I used Rosin paste flux, no.135 and silver bearing rosin core solder with a cheapo iron. I sanded the bearing and cleaned it with alcohol before I soldered it at iron setting 400F. Don’t know if I needed that much heat, but I just wanted to get in and out fast instead of keeping it heated for a long duration at a lower temp. I gave it a good tug after to make sure it was solid.
If you saw the Dewalt bearing housing, that wouldn’t really work; It’s a tight fit where it’s touching the outside race and open where it’s not. I really don’t think it’s a big concern to have soldered it.

Edit: Thinking about it now, people heat up bearing press fit housings all the time with propane before they put the bearing in, which will undoubtedly soak up that heat as soon as it goes in… I do not think this will cause any sufficient long-term issues.


Even if it does I’m sure the replacement bearing is not particularly expensive and you already know how to take it apart :wink:

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I’m a little late to the party, but this is how I did it. I’ve since moved to a water cooled spindle but I enjoyed not having to remember clipping anything when using the BitZero and the DeWalt.

Edit: I purchased a replacement power tool cord that was a little longer and had a ground plug.

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