Aaand I return to this old thread, for additional advice from woodworkers as I expand my power tool collection (it would seem like I’ve become a Bosch-blue addict in the meantime)
Jigsaws, yay or nay ? I have a project that calls for cutting curves in thick material (> 2").
I have a lousy one right now, which of course made me HATE using jigsaws, but I’d like to reconsider my position.
I can’t stand jigsaws. However, that doesn’t mean they aren’t useful. I would rather use a band saw but sometimes you can’t get the piece to the saw or it is too big. I will say that a 2" thick cut in wood (I assume?) with a jigsaw will be quite the adventure. Be sure to get a decent one. I personally like the Makita battery powered ones the most. If I need to cut a bunch of curves repeatedly, I usually go for a router with a flush trim bit and a template to cut curves if they won’t fit on my CNC.
The newer/better ones seem to be really well mass-balanced for the reciprocating motion. Certainly nothing like the few decades old, arm-paralyzing thing that my dad had.
Agreed on that, using a jigsaw well appears to be a learned skill. Until you learn said skill a shotgun or stick of dynamite may be good alternatives to achieve a similar outcome with less effort
Bosch makes great jigsaws, but as others have pointed out, a 2" cut in hardwood is challenging even for the best, especially on curves. The best jigsaws will have adjustable side blade guides to help keep the blades straight. But no matter what, you’ve got a blade supported at only one end going into a curve and so keeping it on track and perpendicular isn’t going to happen if the wood is hard enough and/or the turns are tight enough. You can finish up the cut with a drum sander in a drill press, or you can cut wide, then notch perpendicular towards the line and then perform the finish cut.
Also as reported, bandsaws are where it’s at for something like this, assuming your workpiece fits within the throat width limitations. And bandsaws are great for resawing thick boards into thinner boards as well as making cuts with a smaller kerf than tracksaws or tablesaws.
I would like to pile on the hate for jig saws… they are awful to use and i will do anything to avoid using them. If possible i will use a bandsaw or a router and a template before reaching for a jigsaw.
Thank you all for the inputs…which leave me undecided for now
@WillAdams : that Mafell jigsaw is certainly top of the line (and most expensive on the market), I’m not sure yet if I’d rather go for a Ferrari jigsaw or buy a bandsaw at this price point
@nwallace : I like the idea to use a router with a flush trim bit, but…don’t you still need to cut the rough shape first, hence jigsaw or bandsaw ?
I’m leaning towards corded, I don’t have anything against cordless but those tools won’t be used out of my shop, and I’ll have a dust collection hose plugged in anyway, so I would still be “tethered”…
@jepho: thanks for the Makita reference. The only factor is that now that I have invested in Bosch tracks, it would be a shame to not be able to use them occasionally as a straight guide for the jigsaw, in cases where the track saw won’t cut deep enough. The rails are not compatible, are they ? (the Internetz says “no”?)
I second the comments about the benefits of bandsaws.
It’s my favourite saw since it always cuts downwards and therefore pulls the stock towards the table. I currently have a metal cutting blade on it which nicely slices up to 10mm of brass or aluminium.
No worries. The only time it wouldn’t work is if your template is to large to cut on a bandsaw. Then you are back to the dreaded jigsaw… Templates do tend to be smaller that what you are cutting or can be split into multiple parts so this strategy works more often than just taking the part directly to the bandsaw.
Ironically, part of the reason I bought a Shapeoko was to get away from router templates! I’m even selling my scroll saw as well now.
When it comes to bandsaws, some things to consider:
A) What size are your projects? Do you make jewelry boxes, furniture, or house doors?
B) What size stock do you work with? Are you just looking to cut curves in flat stock, or are you cutting rockers for rocking chairs, or some kind of Victorian porch roof support?
C) Do you want to make 2 boards out of a thick board? This can be anything from resawing 8/4 stock to make two 4/4 boards, down to cutting your own veneers.
I know people who have the small Inca bandsaw and swear by it. I personally have an Inca tablesaw that I love. I used to have an Inca jointer/planer, but traded it in for a larger MiniMax.
EDIT: One thing I should add is that bandsaws can be finicky machines. Even on a new saw, expect to have to check wheel alignment, remove any play, learn how to track a blade, maybe replace the blade guides, etc.
Yes. If your CNC is large enough to cut the part, I don’t see much reason to use a template with a router, a bandsaw or a jigsaw. I have a standard size SO3 though so it is pretty easy to find things that don’t fit. Until I bought our 5’x10’ machine at work, I used the bandsaw template method.
To be trapped in a slot with a 0.75" diameter by 2" router bit is also pretty hairy say when it grabs the other edge and starts climb cutting. Do you guys use bushings to widen the cut so you are not trapped the whole time?
Usually when template cutting, I trace the template on the stock and cut near the line with another tool (band saw or jig saw) so the router is only cutting the small difference.
CNC is a good answer but not the only answer. Like with power tools sometimes the quickest and easiest answer is a hand tool. A good craftsman uses all the tools available to them.