How to fix anything as Im getting started

(jake salcedo) #35

can i use this?

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(mikep) #36

As a really tiny paperweight maybe.

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(jake salcedo) #37

How about that one?

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(mikep) #38

I’ve used these, but found them generally not as great as you would think. What are you trying to do? There are many different endmills used for many different things, all depends on what you are trying to do. Metal? Soft metal? Hard metal? Wood? Plastic? Veneers?

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(mark robinson) #39

https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Endmills

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(jake salcedo) #40

Thanks all for replies. Id be using it to Cut out letters on acrylics and mdf. Id also use it on hardwood pockets like boxes.

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(Stephen Kidwell) #41

I had a bump issue myself but was due to wheels being to tight. It was just one in particular the rear left wheel on the X extrusion plate.

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(Scott Conant) #42

I’ve found that using a downcut bit has been invaluable to me for signage I’e done. It gives a clean top edge. I use it for the first 1mm then switch to a normal bit if it’s too deep…otherwise if its not too deep, i just stay with the downcut bit. I’ve done MDF and hardwood lettering.

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(jake salcedo) #43

Hi Scott,

Im doing the mdf and hardwood lettering. Will you please your experiences? Like what bits to use, etc.

Thank you!

Jake

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(jake salcedo) #44

Good morning guys! Just want to drop by and say hello and keep this thread active.

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(jake salcedo) #45

Hey guys! Im wondering if bit 101 is good for cutting wooden letters?

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(William Adams) #46

Yes, one can use pretty much any endmill to cut letterforms — it’s just a matter of selecting an endmill which matches the size and shape of the letters and the way in which you wish to cut them.

Usually the problem is the radius of the endmill and the inability to get into tight corners, esp. on serif fonts — usually V carving works better, see: http://docs.carbide3d.com/assembly/carbidecreate/video-tutorials/#v-carving

For more general information on endmills see: http://docs.carbide3d.com/support/#tooling-support

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(jake salcedo) #47

Thanks Will! Ill order few packs now.

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(William Adams) #48

Note that for a #101 you’ll need a 1/8" endmill.

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(Gary Mitchell) #49

Love that overhang for dovetails and true box joints too

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(William Adams) #50

This tutorial includes cutting out letters:

https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Child_Name_or_Letter_Board

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(Brandon Cooper) #51

a little late to the party here, but the company I work for specializes in acrylic, mainly .220 and under thickness. We have 4 large Morbidelli Routers that run around the clock, and one of the best small router bits I’ve found for acrylic with a straight edge is a Vortex Tool Company part# 5621. I haven’t had the chance to try one on my Shapeoko yet, but i know its a quality bit that would last most people forever. We normally have to change them every 240-300 hours of use.

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(Dan Nelson) #52

Just looked at the Vortex single flute bits and for the price versus how many hours you’re getting out of one they’re actually pretty cheap. $30 something bucks for 240-300 hours worth of cutting is pretty awesome! They say they work well on aluminum too. Might give some of these a shot, thanks for the heads up!

Dan

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(Brandon Cooper) #53

you’ll have to play with the feeds and speed a little, but once you get that down pat, they will last a long time. All we use is Vortex(at work), but we also have a bunch of custom grind solid carbide bits they do for us. As far as what I’m doing at home, i’m thoroughly impressed with the quality of the bits from carbide3d on wood so far. I’ll continue to use them.

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(system) closed #54

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