How to sand a detailed 3D Carving

Here are a couple of suggestions. Some of these products are available at multiple vendors. This will be a detailed and tedious job. Good Luck.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/supplies/sanding/sticks/20187-stick-sanders?item=56K9401&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&gclid=CjwKCAjw9NeXBhAMEiwAbaY4lpY0lzeMIWAn-kjWDWoxENQe6p1E93GxiXl6fruRHJzxG75EEbZiGRoC0nAQAvD_BwE

https://www.firemountaingems.com/itemdetails/H204631TL?gclid=CjwKCAjw9NeXBhAMEiwAbaY4ll_YIFOUvt0aOneKyKs3qklnsTDBXpr0RV22NTwxhcbuyjKukt2dwRoCLTwQAvD_BwE

3 Likes

Omg, thank you very much.

I use my dremel tool with Nylon brushes.

4 Likes

I have seen other people suggest a Fine Clean brass brush.

2 Likes

A palmyra brush is a good starting point and will remove most of the fuzzies.

1 Like

Had a similar situation with a project once with a lot of fuzzies. I left the project on the machine after the last pass and then applied a coat of polyurethane. Left that to dry completely overnight, and then ran the last finishing pass a second time, which made a huge difference.
However, be aware that some of the polyurethane will soak in beyond the finishing pass and will be part of the finished piece, I.E. you won’t be able to stain evenly using this method.

5 Likes

Mmmh, never thought of that, pretty smart. I’ll have to remember that tip.

4 Likes

That was my first thought too. Apply finish & cut again. If you were going to stain it, stain it first, let it dry really good. Apply a decent coat of finish & recut the finish pass. Brush to get the remaining fuzzies. Then apply a final finish coat.

1 Like

Or, I just dislike sanding more than some Europeans :slight_smile:

2 Likes

Mixing stain, finish, recutting and finish is a formula for disaster. If you stain and finish and recut some of the stain and finish may or may not be cut off. So the areas where the stain/finish is cut off you can reapply the stain and eventually finish but you may make a big mess because the stain will not asorb properly around the edges where the finish is still in place. This could lead to a blotchy mess.

Applying the finish and machining might work ok because you can add more finish. The stain/finish/cutting should be carefully tried before just trying it on a long and expensive project. IMHO

Some ideas sound better on paper than in reality.

My thought was that since the job is completely cut, the 2nd cut would not be removing anything other than the fuzzies that have now been encapsulated by finish, and would be more rigid for removal.
As long as the machine is cutting exactly where it did the first time, it shouldn’t get into the stain.
I would certainly want to test it on something representative.

I use these from amazon, and they work really great. You just need a Dremel!

2 Likes

Not for nothing but I’ve also had wood pieces warp on the bed overnight.
Specifically it was a very long running topo map and the piece was in a garage in the middle of a heat wave. So maybe the stars aligned to kill that project but it’s worth noting :slightly_smiling_face:

Have you tried scotch brite the white pad? I use that to take off the wood fuzzies and it doesn’t change the shape of the wood like sanding. Kept those fine steps I had. Sorry didn’t take a pic of the all the fuzzies removed but it did the job.


2 Likes

I use those too although they don’t last very long.

Just my 2 cents, what about hitting it with water to pop the grain and fuzzies and then cut another finishing pass?

1 Like

Retired Nasa systems engineer and project manager work at Space Center, For 30 years

Mostly play around doing woodwork projects at home projects keeps me out of trouble

Started a YouTube page “Stephen K Cox” to show how carbide create pro works and some of the cool projects you can do.

Started using “widgets” to help with some of my Carbide create pro designs. it is a really powerful trick so I made a YouTube video on how to make widgets. soon I will post some more videos on examples of how to use Widgets. Really cool.

By far the best solution I’ve come up with are rotary bristle disks by 3m. They come in a bunch of different grits and won’t change the shape of your carving. I use them to sand of the “fuzzies” from these carvings all the time. I also use this tool by MicroMark to sand tight flat areas and it works really well.

3 Likes