Hi JC. I feel your learning curve pain. It’s not that I can’t be taught. I fight my impatience that I want to know everything yesterday. Good luck on you journey learning a new skill. I’m sure we will both do amazing things – just not today:)
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If you know others in the PD, you might want to ask the forensic group to see if they have a laser scanner. Another option would be the purchasing department for the badge itself. The source might have a model of their mold.
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Thanks to WillAdams I’m way ahead of where I was! I just finished working through the tutorial he provide for me. I see I still have some work to do to fine tune a few things but I’m super excited.
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Thank you so much WillAdams! I have a way better understanding of what’s happening with 3d models now. I played with the center cowboy for well over an hour. Decides the details were too small to try and cut from white oak. So, I have artist friend I recruited to paint it for me on a disk I will glue in. She’s a woodworker as well and understands what I going for here.
My next task is playing with layers. I spent a couple hours playing with the toolpathing for this as is. Didn’t find a successful outcome. So if each layer has it’s own set of toolpathing I think I’ll achieve a much better result.
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I’m new to the router thing. After 3d printing for years, with some basic abilities to in Fusion 360 (and I do AutoCAD LT for a living, at least one of many responsibilities - to design tooling for machines, and they get sent out to a shop and machined out of aluminum etc, and come back in and I organize and maintain them for various runs)
I recently purchased a fairly inexpensive orange router off amazon, lots of playing around with it, found myself upgrading it every week. Still not learning how to properly use it, but I never knew if problems were me or the machine, but I basically copied the feeds and speeds from an image on the flash drive they sent with the machine.
That lead to somebody i know asking if I could make something for their small business that would be on display all the time for their customers, but it was fairly special (to them) wood.
I did several test runs, and they all went perfect, and then on the final it got well into the run, 95% finished, and decided to stop moving the Y axis for a couple commands, dragging the tool across the piece and destroying it.
I now have the box going back to amazon via UPS at the same time a Shapeoko 5 pro incoming via UPS, and lets try this again…
I want to learn correctly this time, I’m very excited to receive my new machine and learn…
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Welcome. Glad to see you here
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You’re definitely in the right place!
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Just an update on this
The Shapeoko ran this part in a fraction of the time, it came out perfect without a hitch
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Buy once, cry once. In most instances these days you get what you pay for.
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Hello All, My name is Eric I am a product design Engineer.
I work in SolidWorks’. mostly designing shipping trays, Injection mold and thermoform. Prior to this I was a pattern maker, designing and building thermoform patterns. I have a small woodshop built here at home and decided to become the proud owner of a 2x2 pro. I’ve been around CNC routers for years but have never done the programming. Very anxious to get a handle on what this machine can do.
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Welcome Eric.
You’ll find this to be a very helpful and informative community.
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Thanks, I am looking forward to it.
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Welcome aboard, Eric.
I was a pattern/model maker in a previous life. Before becoming an NC programmer/operator, then a software/mfg engineer for Unigraphics/NX.
This is the latest vacform tool I made in my home shop (garage) on my HDM
Hope you have fun with your machine & make lots of sawdust.
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Thanks Todd, Like you it seems like a previous life, was in the 80’s and early 90’s when I was a pattern maker, Moved up to manager ran that until 05. We stopped hand building in 2003 I saw where it was all heading so taught myself solid works and transferred to design department, I now manage that department as well as designing, been on the screen since 05. Material handling mostly. looks like a nice tote you’re going to form there. Is that repo (red material) nice form condition with that huge rad on top. 
getting everything together to make sure I have things to do when I retire.
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Hello – Steve Vlasak here. I’ve had my Pro5 4x4 machine for about 15 months. My only issue is that my wife and I come from upstate NY and spend between 5 and 6 months each year in Florida (can you guess what part of the year that is?). I have degrees in Electrical engineering and business. I retired five years ago from a job where I was worldwide sales and technical support for engineered Variable Frequency Drives. Much of my career had me troubleshooting and commissioning CNC machines. Many of them were very large, some with tables 25’x40’ and with spindle motors up in the 200HP range. This is where I got exposed to CNC machines. Eventually I worked for, and retired from, an international pump manufacturing company that had a custom engineered VFD for varying pump speed. These ranged from 3HP to 3000HP (medium voltage). While “retired” I still do occasional contract work for the pump company designing controls interfacing between the plant control system and the pump VFD. (Oh – and as a side note, I drive Amish construction crews a couple days a week. Go figure!)
I tend to do a lot of my work using solid surface material. The reason for this is my neighbor fabricates custom countertops and often has lots of scrap. A lot of countertop fabricators are looking to get rid of scraps for either zero dollars or close to it. I also cut unique monogramed drying boards with tapered groves for the neighbor. These are value-add item no one else is doing. He provides the material, I cut it and get paid $50 for each one. A board takes about 35 minutes. We are currently working together on custom restaurant/bar/winery tables with the customer’s graphic and name engraved then backfilled with epoxy.
2024 was my first year of cutting 3D and for using 2-part epoxy. It’s been a big learning process but I am liking what I have experienced so far. I just posted a couple of my wedding/anniversary plaques under; ”What did you cut on your Shapeoko/Nomad today” section. I don’t want to get into metals. I did cut a carburetor spacer plate that was tapered from 1/4” thick to 1” thick on the other side. The racer was not able to get the motor to set level into the car and it was messing with his floats. The tapered plate made all the difference.
Closing, I intend on getting onto hardwood more as I have some unique items designed and am looking forward to making. My biggest fear (lack of knowledge) is finishes. This area will be a big learning curve for me. I truly enjoy seeing the items all of you make and show, and some day hope to get closer to your talent set.
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Is “solid surface” the same as Corian? I’ve been playing with Corian for a sign project. Trying different speeds and feeds, any suggestions?
Hello Logan.
Yes, Corian is a brand name for Solid Surface. Wilsonart, Gibraltar, Avonite, etc. are all brand names for solid surface. I’ve been cutting it in the majority of my projects because it is easy to work with (finishing), and I get all of the material I can use from my neighbor who makes custom counter tops.
Feeds & Speeds - When I got my machine a year ago this past June I received it with the 65mm router as delivery on the spindle kit was running late at that time. I started running feeds and speeds that now I feel were fairly aggressive. While Carbide 3D was great and replacing them under warranty I went through 3 routers in about 7 months. I finally went with the spindle/VFD kit in June of this year and brought the feeds-speeds-depths to values I feel are better for the spindle and machine. Attached is a copy of my Solid Surface tool list with feed-speed-depth detail.
Tool Set - Solid Surface.pdf (430.2 KB)
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I appreciate you sharing that with me. I’ve just started using Solid Surface, but really like how well it machines and holds detail! The S&Fs I use are about 2 to 3 times faster than what you have. DOC is same as yours. I’ve been meaning to compile a spreadsheet, when I do I’ll share with you.
At one time I was faster with most of my feeds and speeds, and in the case of the 1/4" straight bits I was running 1/4". I believe this was part f the issue of wearing out routers so quickly. But ultimately, trim routers are not designed to run for long periods of time. The VFD/Spindle is the best way to go.
Good luck and take care.
Welcome to the forum! I like the use of "established’ and “we still do” in your projects.
I haven’t used solid surface, seems like it might be good for engraving. But my searching reveals it’s mainly available in 1/2" thickness. Could it be band sawed and run through a drum sander? Know of any sources of 1/8" thick white?