I have a couple of homemade router sleds that I’ve used to flatten / surface end-grain cutting boards, rough lumber, etc. I’d like to start to use my 5.1 as my surfacer. With the 80mm spindle and a 1/2" Shank, Iought to be able to drive a nice wide surfacing bit and expect a nice flat surface.
First - have you used your CNC in that way in a large scale? Second, what’s the largest diameter bit you have used?
In 1/2" shank bits, I see 3 1/4" bits rated for CNC use. Anyone use them?
Any reason the 80mm spindle couldn’t handle it? I’m sure the RPMs would be lower, but the speed rates ought to make this a very viable option. Better (and less back-breaking) than some of these sleds costing $500 - $1000.
I have the ER11, 65mm spindle. I use a 1” diameter bit max. You should be easily able to use up to 2” cutter with the 80mm spindle. I have used this size on my router tables with no issues. My best advice with the new setup is to test, test and test your feeds and speeds.
Load up a slab and send it…… start with lite DOC’s and listen to the machine and go from there.
First make sure you are using the bit with in its rpm range. A lot of the non cnc bits aren’t rated for much rpm.
I regularly use a carbide insert 2.5” bit. It’s 1/4” drive ( part of an amana a set I bought years ago). Have zero issues with it.
I have tried to use a grizzly C3707Z 7 cutter 2” bit. I start having torque issues with it. I had to slow down feed rate to a point where I was having other issues at 1/8” doc
It may work for you but it wasn’t worth the frustrations in the maple and cherry I was dealing with.
I just use my insert bit up to 1/8” doc in hardwood at 275 ipm. I’ve raked 1/4” doc in mdf without issue.
I use a 1 1/2" planer bit, and a 3" sanding bit, both with 1/2" shanks.
I use them often enough that they just sit out on the bench & rarely get put away.
I’m going to be planing boards that won’t fit in my 15" planer. So these will be 20-48" inches in width by up to 9’ or 10’ The wider the cut (allowing for overlap), the better for speed without losing quality. So I’m thinking a pretty big bit (like 3 or more inches in diameter).
The tough part there is supporting the offhanging bit accurately enough & getting a reference flat plane to start with. Unless you have one good side to start with.
I’d be inclined to find someone with a 5’ x 10’+ machine & hire it out.
Hey Ryan…that’s a good point on tiling. I’d probably get a better result tiling 5-7 times. More overlap = better consistency, I would think. Although, this isn’t really a different problem than having a sled that’s shorter than the board you’re flattening.
Also, totally agree on the tramming issues…although any tramming issues are going to show up here. The real question will be how big and how easily sanded away without changing the board flatness. We’re not talking surgically flat…we’re talking flat over a 9’ table (no visible dips or mounds). Again…not downplaying the issue, but it exists with sleds as well.
Yeah…if such a person existed in my area at a reasonable price, they’d be my best friend.
This is a tricky problem - happens with sleds as well. I’ve snapped a reference line on the side of the board and then used a level to get that line flat in the clamps. Then cut the reference wherever that falls. Move the board, realign the snapped mark with the level and cut the rest. Not easy.
I have been thinking about getting the Haas 45mm surfacing bit. It is cheap, and good to 15K RPM. I have bought a variety of end mills from them and they work well, and are of good quality. Has anyone used any of their surfacing bits?
I have used a 2.5" bits with success. My best experience has always been with just a plain half inch upcut endmill. The IDC Ripper is one that I use often and while it is much smaller, you can run it at full speed and if you were to ever want to surface some stock that has a lot of irregularities in it, it just mows right through them.
I have the 80 mm water cooled spindle with 1/2 in collet and I use Spe Tool 2 in 3 inserted slab cutters exclusively they cut hard wood like butter and will easily handle a .375 deep cut at 12000 rpm and 100 inches a minute feed rate, and would take more probably. You have to disable the bit setter on this tool because of the bottom shape of tool but thats not a big deal. I hardly ever even need a finish pass even when my step over is 1 in. Also the 2 in fits brush dust boot. I use a lot of Spe Tool endmish and tools good quality and very reasonable prices!
