I know that im not the only one with accuracy issues after multiple toolpaths on the Nomad. From my experience with the same switches on the s3, they will throw you off as much as 0.010… that’s huge for finishing paths that only rely on 10 thou left stock.
Switching over to non contact proximity switches solved my issues before. Just wondering if anyone has any other solutions or have personally experienced this.
I’m curious, which proximity switches are you using? Is this a straight switch from the old limit switches to the new proximity?
I’m using @Luke powered proximity kits on my dual S3s.
They are a direct plug and play with an extra wire, mounting space doesnt look to be an issue.
Maybe they will now be offered by Carbide
Interesting - are you referring to running seperate gcode files for each toolpath or a single file with tool changes between toolpaths? I havent noticed that problem but then I usually do a single file with all the tool changes inside it for a particular setup and rezero on each run (if I think whats going on is going on)
I post and run each toolpath individually, same workflow as the shapeoko. Except I let the built it tool length probe change Z when doing toolchanges on the Nomad.
Havent seen that yet, as I keep everything to one post, but I understand you’re running large parts and may split between sessions.
What sort of deviation are you seeing on the Nomad @Vince.Fab ?
You could also reduce the bump in speed in GRBL to give the stock switches a chance.
Its surprising the Nomad runs the same switches, they are quite inaccurate.
I got sick of the inaccuracy on my S3 and have purchased the same type as Luke’s inductive switches but I picked them up from Aliexpress
have you got a link for where you got them from?
Search for TL-W5MC1 on Aliexpress or eBay - there is a long list of sellers who offers these.
Out of curiosity how are you coming up with the .01 offset? are features positioned .01 off uniformly? However are the actual features themselves holding normal tighter tolerances, just slightly offset in position?
Hmmm. I’m seeing a lot on eBay, but with enough variations (like RS, SG, KIJ, KJH, ?) and in cost that I’m wondering which might be PnP, like Mr Beaver offered for the S3. I figure I ought to just get a set for both the Nomad & S3 now, & avoid a problem later.
Any specific suggestions, for those of us more mechanically / less electrically inclined? Thx!
Usually it’s very easy to tell when facing or finishing. I’ve seen them much as 10 thou off because that’s how much I’ve had to adjust it back to its initial position.
Usually this isn’t a huge deal for accuracy because of stock left during roughing but when running higher speeds and harder metals it definitely comes into play.
I was cutting titanium the other day and only left a small amount of stock (0.005) and facing steps were 0.003/0.001. Luckily it was only a fixture plate but having to account for the switch toss is stressful.
I thought I’d look into it:
Your store link says out of stock but what’s the chance you have another set hidden?? I didn’t even notice that you had put the new switches on.
I assumed Mr. B is winding down his store now that he’s joined the mothership. So I just bought 7 of these from the good people of HK, & left 3 in stock for ya.
Fingers crossed they’re right, bc I have no idea what L2 implies.
Hats off to Mr Beaver! Man, I ordered a neato Zero Probe, and got some very helpful sensor & extra bits in a very fetching blue. +, they somehow made it from England’s Green and Pleasant Land to the middle of North America in like 3 days. I don’t know how you did it, but it’s all just super! Thank you so much, the videos are very helpful as well. Pete
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