Hello,
I’ve been looking at the Pro 5 4 x 4 and have been unable to find any table top dimensions specific to this CNC. I have a general design that I intend to build, just need to know what would be the minimum table-top dimensions to build. Thanks, in advance for any response to my request.
bungelowed
Thank you! I spent the better part of a day looking for this information. Truly, you saved me a bunch of time.
Thanks Again
I would recommend whatever you build you give yourself about 8-10 inches in the front. This is a place to store bits and calipers and other things you need for machining. Plus you can shift the machine forward to cut in front of the spoilboard.
Be sure you reinforce the table top so your machine wont sag in the middle.
For minimum recommended dimensions, just scroll down a bit on the specs page: Shapeoko 5 Pro Specifications
Excerpt:
You can make 60x60" work, but just be aware that some bits may stick past the footprint of the table, and may be a snag hazard.
Good point. I’m doing a plywood cut optimization later today and will change design to add space.
I definitely only want to build a table once. Based on input from gdon_2003, I’m now planning 72" x 65", or there abouts. Cutlist optimization will influence final size.
I second the 8 to 10 inches in front of the machine…
Well, I guess the larger group have influenced my decision… Fortunately, there is enough wall and floor space to move the table when access for larger projects is necessary. I’ll post pictures and cutlist after it’s completed.
As a counterpoint, I would like to note that I have my machine working area flush against the front of the table with a bit of it overhanging so that I can take advantage of the overhang cutting area at the front.
Thanks for the counterpoint. Your approach is the same as my original thinking.
My table will be in a corner with uninterrupted walls of 5 ft. and 17 ft. Building bigger will, I think, give me options for setting up space for tools, misc and the inevitable unexpected. We’ll see though.
Well, in addition to the machine itself one wants room for:
I recently bought my Shapeoko 5 Pro 4x4, and have been through this issue. I had never built a workbench before, but I’m extremely happy about the results.
Big box stores only carry, MDF/Plywood up to 4’x8’ - but you need a workbench at least 60 inches square. I went to Central Hardwoods (local in Dallas) to get 5’ x 5’ sheets of both for my build. MDF comes in 5’ x 10’ sheets, and they were happy to cut the sheet in half for $4. I rented a flatbed 10’ truck from Home Depot to transport everything.
I bought 4x4 and 2x6 lumber at Lowes (looked better than the Home Depot lumber), picking out straight quality boards. I also bought the Kreg pocket hole jig kit for assembly.
I placed the plywood on top and screwed that down to the outer frame and cross support. Then I added the MDF on top and used a router to edge the MDF to the plywood. The MDF is NOT screwed to the plywood. Next, shellac and flat black paint for sealing and protection.
Next, I added 2x6 framing to the outside edge - flush with the MDF surface. This will allow clamped accessories, dust collection, and maybe an enclosure base if needed later. By framing like this, I can easily replace or modify these boards without having to remove the completed CNC that will sit on the MDF surface.
Still working on the dust collection - looks like the 10’ hose won’t cut it.
Happy to answer any questions or provide additional images / links to any products used. Hope this helps!
Nice!
Interesting about 5x10 sheets of MDF. What did you use for the shelf at the bottom front?
I will note that if you’re willing to snug the machine up against the front and allow for a bit of overhang at the back (it’s unsupported/not touching the table anyway), 48" can be made to work for a 4x4, and 24" for a 4x2:
The hose seems fine to me, so long as it doesn’t drag onto the gantry and interfere with machine motion.
Thanks!
The shelf at the bottom front is the second piece of MDF, cut in half. There’s a crossmember at the mid-point (east/west), and then two more between the the front and the half-way point (north/south) to prevent flex in the 3/4" MDF. It’s very solid. Original thought was to have it be a full shelf, but there’s not enough space on the diagonal to slide it in, plus the deeper rear section is better for the dust bucket / shop vac.
What you’re suggesting is part of the design reasoning. As the surround is just on with brackets they can be removed without disturbing the CNC if I want to do big 4x8 or indexed cuts.
Put me in the minimal group. I think I only have an inch around the machine. My tablet is on an arm, so it needs no table space. My accessories like BitZero and collet wrenches are in 3D printed organizers on the front. I have a decently sized shop, but it has to be used for so many purposes that there is no need to make the table bigger than it needs to be. 
I also highly recommend remote switches to mount with your power pendant. I cut the panel parts as the first job after assembly
In this image, the center switch is for the control unit power, and the right switch is for the shop vac. I wouldn’t want to be going under the bench to regularly turn either of those switches on.
I get it. Over the years my shops have been 600 sq ft to ~1400 sq. ft. we all have to figure out what works best for there needs.
I am hoping to do some indexed cutting to make dories and kayaks. That’s my reasoning for larger table and space. We’ll see if I ever get enough knowledge to accomplish the dream.
I think that I’ll probably do something similar once my table is built. My reasoning, the simpler it is to setup and cut, the more often I’ll use the CNC.
I put these casters on several different machines. The foot lifts the wheel completely off the ground, and is very stable. (not an affiliate link)
