Meyer's Wasteboard

I bought the files for Meyer’s wasteboard, etc. and learned by inspecting it that he used a 1/4 flat endmill. I’ve read here several times that one shouldn’t be stressing the Z-axis with drilling operations on the Shapeoko XXL. This wasteboard has nearly 300 holes in it. I can’t tell how much feed is put on that drilling process (because I’m still ignorant.)

I’ve also seen a link to a “drill mill” by Harvey Tool, but that doesn’t fit in with the fact that many folks have drilled Meyer’s wasteboard as their first project.

What can you tell me about that process? I’m all ears.

That was one of my first projects along with the clamps. Waste board works good. Only problem I’ve had is some of the tee nuts will not say in cause it’s MDF. I’m thinking of trying to make one out of 3/4 play wood. But don’t know how that would work. Also thinking of investing in an aluminum one.

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I just got the Aluminum one. Very expensive. However, It is just as nice as it is expensive haha… Looks like it will last forever! Seems like it will be much more sturdy then MDF.
I spoke to OhioDieselParts.com and they said they don’t drill and tap their boards, they use a thread forming machine that makes the threads way stronger and welds them in place. I can feel some slightly raised tooling marks on top… it looks like it was surfaced with a 4 foot end mill!

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Hi @CrookedWoodTex,

I read you question as being, “should I be concerned about using a 1/4” flat endmill for drilling holes in the wasteboard using Meyer’s design ?".
If you are going to use his Carbide Create file, the short answer is no.
Yes, endmills are terrible at drilling, but if you look closely at Mr Meyer’s design file, you will see that:

  • the holes are actually larger (0.31" diameter) than the diameter of the 1/4" endmill, so you will be pocketing as much as you will be drilling.
  • he used a very conservative plunge rate of 5 inches per minute. Such a slow plungerate, in MDF, is not going to cause any stress on a properly tensioned Z-axis

Tens (hundreds ?) of people have apparently used his CC file to do their wasteboard, so you’re good to go.

EDIT: it’s just going to be a long cut…given that slow plungerate, and the number of holes…

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Gosh it feels good to be a “rookie” again! :smiley: Its been many decades since I’ve missed that much information all at once. Upon further inspection, I see what you are telling me.

I should have more faith in Meyer’s productions. Thank you!

I have an XXL and made the Myers spoil board, fences and cam clamps. The wasteboard is MDF as well as the fences. I made the cam clamps out of Red Oak and oriented the grain so it goes across the widest part of the clamp. Grain on Red Oak if very strong but his file is laid out so half will have short grain and the other half will have long grain. Split your cam clamps so you have all long grain for maximum strength.

I really like the Myers spoil board design. I also made one other change and I ordered 5/16" 1/4-20 TEE nuts so I can tram my spoil board several times. When I made mine I had bought a full sheet of MDF and so I made three of them at once. When the first one wears out I can tap the TEE nuts out and reinsert them in the new spoil board. When I had all 3 spoil boards cut I lined them up and drilled a 1/4" hole in each corner so they all matched. When I installed the first one I used a transfer punch and marked the Shapeoko spoil board and then drilled out and inserted the brass inserts. Then when the holes match up I counter sunk the 1/4" hole below the surface of the spoil board so I could tram without fear of hitting the screw heads. I used 1/4-20 flat head screws to secure the spoil board. The fence I used nylon 1/4-20 bolts and washers in case I ever cut into the fence. The cam clamps I measured the depth of bolt needed so as not to bottom out the bolt on the Shapeoko spoil board. My first tram I had to buy slightly shorter bolts to keep from raising the supplemental spoil board up when they bottomed out against the Shapeoko original spoilboard.

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