I’ll definitely keep working on it. I’ll try flipping the belts. I’ve had squaring issues related to the belts from day 1. In this case its a positional accuracy since I’m trying to mill 3 holes in a straight line and the spacing is not coming out correct. I can only imagine if someone was doing sign work and had mounting holes milled into a large sign only to find that the hole placement is off.
I routinely flip workpieces on my modified 3XL. It works pretty well.
What I do is use a straight endmill to drill a through-hole in my workpiece (in a place that will not be seen). I also mill a straight edge on one edge of my workpiece. If the top of the workpiece is not planar with the bottom I face the top off too. With a square fence on the Shapeoko (mount a bit of scrap and mill a straight edge so it’s square to your machines axis) I flip the workpiece so the milled edge is snug against the fence. Then I use the hole and manual controls to carefully zero the cutter in x and y directions. You can feel when the cutter is reinserted in the hole correctly by manually spinning the router bit. When it spins with minimum friction you are within 0.1 - 0.2mm. The new toolpaths for the flipped side use the new zero for X and Y and usually I leave Z at the machined top of my spoilboard.
I use fusion360 to model and do the cam, then CNC.js to send the gcode to the machine.
It’s easier than it sounds. The main thing is to machine something you can zero to from the other side.
I use the same method to cut longer things than the bed of my Shapeoko too. (tiling)
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