Need help! Acrylic keeps pulling endmill and spindle down through the material

Since I am a new member to the forum, I can only post 1 image. I condensed the 5 images down into 1 and it’s posted and annotated at the bottom of this post. Right-click to open the image in a new tab to view it better.

I’m having a hard time with this project and I need some guidance and wisdom. I’m cutting a 4mm path into a 6mm piece of cast acrylic on a Shapeoko 4 XXL. I’m using the stock Nomad #201 1/4" end mill. The values I used were from a video by Winston at Carbide (https://youtu.be/a9qi6Z-CEP8) for cutting acrylic on a Shapeoko with a 1/4" endmill (starts around the 2:07 mark in the video).

Pocket toolpath is image [1].

The settings for the toolpath is [2].

The first time I ran the job, at cut the first small sections fine but when it got to a longer stretch like on the letter L on the far left, I ran into a problem. And by problem, I mean the wasteboard. It went completely through the material and well into the wasteboard. I immediately stopped the machine and what is found is [3].

Another shot from further back is [4].

Not quite sure what happened to have caused that but I started looking into my computer logs to see if there was a failure or hang with USB communications during the job but that didn’t appear to be the case since no critical/error logs were found regarding USB or serial communication during that time. I’ve used the CNC many, many times using the same computer and USB adapter and I’ve never had any issues, so I don’t think that is the case. This was also my first time working with acrylic, though.

I performed a dry run but redoing the job but taking out the bit and keeping the spindle off for the job and there were no problems. It ran perfectly. I paid extra attention and recorded a video when it got to the spot where it failed previously just to be sure. I feel confident that it wasn’t the comm path, the CNC, or the computer.

I reordered another piece of 6mm cast acrylic, thinking that it was just a transient issue. I ran the job again and kept an eye on it. It made it past the part where it failed the first time and I thought everything was good. Shortly afterwards, it did the same thing again but at a different spot. The result is [5].

When it gets to longer, straight-line runs, it makes a different noise, like something isn’t right. Can’t quite explain it but it keyed me in and got my attention so I was able to stop the machine before something spontaneously disassembled. The cut gets deeper leading up to it and eventually passes through the material entirely and then keeps going into the wasteboard where it gets completely trapped. It seems like the material is pulling the endmill and spindle down, treating the bit like an auger or screw rather than a cutter but I can’t be 100% sure that is what’s really going on.

I figured that since I used settings provided by Carbide in the video and verified it in other posts on the forum that they would be safe to use.

What am I doing wrong?

Is that acrylic cast or extruded?

It looks to be extruded which is notoriously difficult to machine — try cast acrylic?

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I really hope thats the case but the description from Amazon says that it’s cast. Link to acrylic sheet being used: Amazon.com

Most people cut acrylic with O flute bits.

You will notice there is only one cutting edge. You can use a 2 or 3 flute bit but you get twice as much heat and melting can occur.

If your bits are being pulled out of the collet then check out these instructions.

  1. Clean your collet and collet nut with brake cleaner, aclohol or other solvent you have and let it dry.
  2. Use a qtip with the solvent to clean inside the router shaft.
  3. Any bit installed in a trim router has to have the bit pushed in at least as tall as your collet. So if your collet is .75" tall then your bit should be inserted at .75" into the collet. Inserting further is ok but never insert the bit until it bottoms out.
  4. On the Makita/C3D router you can use the stop button to get the bit tightened up enough so it does not fall out. After getting to that poiint release the stop button and use two wrenches to tighten up your collet nut. Failure to use two wrenches will likely lead to your bit being loose and pulled down making deeper cuts than you intend.
  5. Down cut bits tend to pull the bit deeper and deeper into the cut. That can also cause the material to rise up which causes a deeper cut than intended. A large sheet of acrylic is very flexible and can cause it to rise up. An up cut bit can also pull the material away from the table so use at lease a couple strips of painters tape and super glue to keep your acrylic from being pulled up off the spoilboard.
  6. If you experience melting of the acrylic then increase the IPM of your tool path. Acrylic is soft and brittle at the same time so increasing the surface speed helps keep the heat down and helps keep melting to a minimum. Along with an increase of surface speed (IPM) you might need to decrease depth of cut.

Try those things to help cut acrylic and let us know of any of the advise helped.

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Is the plastic covered in a film? If so, it’s probably extruded, cast acrylic comes covered in paper as shown on the listing page.

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The single flute bit, something like this or simular is the way to go. The CA glue and painters tape is also going to be important on holding that thin sheet down and flat to the spoil board. Not only is that upcut bit trying to lift your work piece but if your running dust collection, it will also add to the lifting forces.

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I changed the cutter to an O-flute and it worked perfectly! I dialed back the stepdown by a hair and reduced the design to just a single letter to test it out and this was the result.

Thanks for the assistance @gdon_2003, @Ed.E!

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And thanks to @WillAdams (forum only allows me 2 username mentions per post).

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