Hi!
I’ve seen a bunch of demos / videos and what not but given that there are quite a lot of nooks / slits everywhere, what’s the best way to clean out the machine and how often do you need to do this?
Thanks!
-Mux
Hi Mux
I dont know on the “Best Way”, however, I got a brush and a compressed air can. Currently after every job I move the table and with a brush clean it out. Then compress air through the slits. Im not sure on the oiling of the x and Z axis, but maybe someone can help us out on that, or if the method of brushing and using compressed air is incorrect.
yours,
If you’re machining wood, fiberglass, carbon composite, or other easily friable (easily crumbled) materials that may damage your lungs compressed air and brushing is exactly the wrong thing to do.
Vacuum up the visible particles.
HEPA filter on your vacuum - protect your lungs! 
Now take a paper towel or rag, dampen it every so slightly and wipe everything down. On large CNC machines the dampening agent is often a tiny bit of lubricant. I often use 3-in-1 oil.
Throw that away. Another paper towel or rag. A bit of lubricant - Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE is the recommend one - and wipe down the rails.
The rails underneath - Y - are hard to get to. They need love to. I suspect they don’t get dirty too fast but periodically they need to be cleaned.
After the rails are wiped down and lubricated (ever so slightly) move the Nomad around - full range - a few times - all axises - to get some lubricant on everything.
mark
P.S.
We blow out a computer because we know it’s (only?) dust and we don’t want a vacuum brush to create a static charge that can damage the electronics.
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Another reason why it is not a good idea to use compressed air on any machine tool, is that it tends to blow chips and other debris past bearing seals and promotes bearing wear. I was taught long ago to brush and wipe machines clean, spray down with lube is good, but not high-pressure air blasts.
Randy
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So basically same treatement as non-CNC mills and lathes?
Yup. Clean up particles, wipe down (tiny bit of lubricant on the rag), lubricate rails as necessary via a wipe down (very little lubricant; move machine round after).
Clean up - woods and friable materials - vacuum up. Vacuum (dust collector) should have a HEPA filter.
Clean up plastics - brush up or vacuum up.
Clean up metals - brush up.
If one machines a lot of metal, try to get 3 or 5 gallon plastic drums and save the particles; keep each metal separate. The metal can be recycled.
mark
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@Mux, here is a cardboard mockup of an idea I’ve been considering for a while, being concerned like you with the nooks and crannies. I plan to make the liner from some .040" aluminum sheet I have.
The liner sits against the acrylic back wall, and the corner radii are small enough (2.5" radius) so as to not interfere with the table or any workpiece that doesn’t overhang it when the table is full back. You can just see that the liner has a roof that is at the level of the cross bulkhead.
Please ignore the setback on the right side. Measure twice, cut once, but be sure to cut on the correct line from the second measurement… But that’s a good reason for mock-ups. 
Randy
Randy
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LOVELY IDEA @Randy!
Which raises a question - how does one clean underneath? I see that there is no bottom - the wood surface is visible.
The slots are bound to allow particles, swarf and other fun things underneath. From time-to-time those should be cleaned up, and rails given a clean and a lube.
Is the Al “floor” easily removable? Does one have to elevate the Nomad to get under it?
mark
@mbellon, the “floor” is adhered to the structure. I’m thinking 3M VHB tape, knowing the quality of the stuff that the Carbide crew do. And Rob may have mentioned it once. Yes, to clean under the Nomad I just lift it off. Anyway, to take off the floor one would need to remove the table since it spans the slots in the floor. The slots are wisely offset from the Y bearing rails so no debris will fall directly onto them.
Of course, within a couple of minutes out of the box I had turned the Nomad over to look at the mechanism. The Pro will, of course, have a leadscrew instead of the belt.
Randy
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@Randy - Much thanks for the explanation and picture! 
I was wondering about the slots too. The offset makes me very happy!
mark
not sure what the clearance is under the y axis (build area) plate but some low profile brushes either side of the slots would stop debris getting under the machine, not sure if there is anything susceptible to dust under there?