Those two answers where kind of conflicting 
. Did you cut the round shape with the cutter as well @Julien?
Have you tried cutting glass with it @wmoy or are you just talking about what’s recommended and not?
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I have not tried to do the glass score & break method on curves before, but my experience with wine bottles leads me to believe that a diamond drag bit would not be good for this application. On very thin panes of glass I could see this being theoretically possible, but controlled crack propagation on a super light scratch is not very reliable.
I believe Julien was responding to the comment about acrylic, not glass.
Also, new video!
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Winston clarified it, I was indeed only responding to Patrick, about the acrylic engraving part
People do use CNC with drag bits for this purpose. I’ve taken up stained glass since getting my Nomad so have investigated this. But, as Winston points out, the cutter will probably take some abuse. If you try this, use the 120° tip and oil the path. You should read up a bit on cutting curves in glass, there are limitations. For example, cutting a semicircle, inside or outside, might require 8 or more progressive cuts. I ultimately decided it was best to score by hand.
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How are these compared to the ones that can be found on eBay, like RDZ, for $59? I just got a Nomad and used to have a Shapeoko. I had one of those in 90 degree, so earlier I went to buy the same one before noticing that Carbide3D now has these for less, and it looks like they also have less stick-out. I’m tempted to buy the set of 2 to try them out, as I didn’t have a 120 degree one before, although the 90 degree seemed to be fine on acrylic.
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