Just want some clarification, i’ve read the manuals/instructions and watched a few videos.
To properly set the tool length and stock height/location, i should do the following.
Bitzero on the corner of work piece
Install 1/4 or 1/8 probe into collet
Run a XYZ probe
Run a change tool and install the first cutter, thus Bitsetter resets the Z axis length for the tool
Run program
Does that sound about right? I’m confused on the probe vs using a bit piece, but i’m assuming that where the tool change comes in to calculate that difference and keep things accurate?
There is no reason to run a separate Z calibration on top of the work piece correct?
Yes, that is the correct sequence, so long as one does the tool change from the probing pin to the actual tool when prompted so that the BitSetter is used to measure the tool length offset.
Correct. The BitSetter will manage the length difference.
If you do the tool change using the interface button for this, and have your origin and current machine position set somewhere that allows it, you can check that this is done by using the Z+6mm Rapid Position.
Does a tool change/set need to happen before using the bitzero?
I’m trying to remember the sequence, but i think on initialization it goes over to the bitsetter to check the length? So that should be the probing pin to start? or does it not matter, as long as the probing pin is in there before using the bitzero?
During initialization the bit is not important only that you have one. What it is doing is setting Z zero from the last time you physically set Z zero. That may have been the last time you used your machine.
The BitZero V2 is better to use the pin over a bit because as you stated the flutes can cause false readings. Using the perfectly round pin avoids that happening.
The BitSetter is only comparing the internal coordinates set during initialization of the homing position to the depth of the last time you set Z zero.
Always only change bits when prompted or using the Load New Tool Button. If you manually change the bit you just lost calibration with the initialization and the last you set Z zero.
Never Never Never change a bit without the software directing you to do so. You can set your zeros anywhere you want and the lower left corner is used by a lot of people but that is not the only place you can set X and Y zeros. I use the center a lot. That is a manual process but then I use my bit to set the Z zero with the BitZero sitting on top of the work if I use top of material or the BitZero sitting on the spoilboard if I use the bottom of material.
So when you initialize the X Y and Z internal coordinates are set. Those are not used by the operator just CM and the machine. Then you set your X Y and Z zeros CM calculates the difference between the internal coordinates and the position you set for the Z with the BitZero or the paper manual method. Then each time a bit is requested by CM that calculation is made to keep the Z zero set no matter how how or low the new bit is set in the router a calculation is made and a new offset is created maintaining your Z zero setting. So the pin can be used for Z or your bit. It does not matter because it is the offset created that determines where the new bit is in relation to the previously set Z zero. The pin should be used for the X and Y settings on the corners of the project.
It does not matter where you put the BitZero on top of the material to set zero. The center or on one side or the other. The BitZero has a lip on two sides. If you are setting X and Y on a corner then the lip hangs over. If you are only setting Z then there is a circle and you put the lip up on top of the material.
If you are doing and x y and Z on a corner then the lip is over the edge. If only doing Z then the lip is up on top. When you pick which type of zeroing you are doing CM compensates for the height of the lip for each situation you have picked to zero with. That is why there are multiple options for which zeroing you are trying to do. CM knows the height of a BitSetter with and without the lip and compensates depending on what type of zeroing you are doing.
When I set my origin in the center I put painters tape on the center and use a ruler to mark the center. Then I jog the bit over to that position and lower the Z to just above the material and visually set the X and Y by jogging. Then set the X and Y zero. There is no way to automatically set X and Y in the center with the BitZero because there is no reference that the lip of the BitZero gives when using the corner and the height and thickness of the lip
Appreciate all the help, did my first real wood cutting and everything went perfect. Just cut out some 3/8 x 3.5" slots in the rear fence of a box joint jig i’m building.