Prop-Nut project for keepin' it cool

(Jonathan K) #25

Hi @mikep,

Thanks for reminding me! It had gone onto the pile of ‘things I should get around to already sometime soon’

I just went back over my Fusion360 files and checked that I’d made the revisions I had in mind:

Printing a test locally here on my Zeus to see if the changes indeed fix things up properly, then if so, I’ll repost it.

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(Jonathan K) #26

@mikep

Updated version works, and is up again for sale :slight_smile: It’s a bit of a tight fit, so expect some light sanding on the interior surfaces that engage the nut, as I’ve made them arched to provide a bit of flex and a compression fit, but it may still be a bit too stiff straight from the printer. Let me know how it works for you!

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(Jonathan K) #27

Here’s some photos of the real thing (2.0) in-hand & on my Nomad printed at home in PLA first:

And here’s the v2.3 with the arched cut-outs for a better, more compliant fit on the spindle. Pardon the crappy low-res photos from my phone:


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(mikep) #28

Ordered!
Here’s some more text to make the post long enough.

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(Clifford Land) #29

I am not sure if i may have missed it. but if I did, and you don’t mind, could you tell me what settings you used to cut the corian. i have some pieces that i want to try out but am having a hard time finding a good jumping off point for feed rate and plunge rate.

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(Jonathan K) #30

Corian is mostly Acrylic/Acrylate-based resins, with fillers depending on what the “look” is the designer was going for… so as a result you can treat it mostly like Acrylic and then tune from there based on how some test cuts turn out. Machines pretty cleanly if the variety you’re working with doesn’t have too many large chunks of different coloration in the fill. Good luck!

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(Sean) #31

Hey @UnionNine – any chance you could put your prop-nut back on Shapeways (or share an STL)?

This is something I’d like for my own machine, and I like yours best out of all the other options from Thingiverse and Othermill.

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(rlicquey@gmail.com) #32

Somewhere on the forum there is the one I made for the Dewalt 611 out of HDPE. Here’s a link to the Fusion 360 project. http://a360.co/2uDDyAf . Its a three-blade fan. It works extremely well blowing chips out of the cutting area, but adds to the noise because it’s not perfect. I’m sure it will eventually cause advanced wear on the 611, but (a) I’m working in wood and don’t need extreme precision and (b) a 611 is relatively inexpensive as far as I’m concerned.

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(Sean) #33

@Boothecus Awesome! Thanks for the link. Do you know if this’ll fit on the Nomad’s ER-11 collet nut? If it’s specifically for a Dewalt spindle I’ll probably need to tweak it to make it work for my machine.

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(William Adams) #34

I will note that I was fascinated by the idea of these things, and tried two pieces of blue painter’s tape as a fan and was quite distressed by how thoroughly it blew dust around the innards of the machine. YMMV.

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(rlicquey@gmail.com) #35

Sean, I don’t know what the Nomad collet looks like, but I’m sure it’s not the same as the Dewalt so you would have to remanufacture it.Note that if you use my plan, please review it thoroughly. When I did the front side, I cut the center deep into the wasteboard. I then inserted a spare collet into the wasteboard cutout and flipped the fan to do the backside. That was how I handled aligned for the two-side cuts. You might not want to have it do that.

Will, it does indeed blow dust all over the place, but there’s none in the cutting path. I don’t particularly care about dust because the CNC is in its own room. And I have another “mod” that makes dust collection nearly impossible.

I made an adapter to mount a DeWalt random orbit sander into the spindle. Because I do a lot (and I mean a lot) of sanding of the same product going from 120 grit up to 4000 grit, it can take an hour’s worth of sanding to finish a surface. Doing that by hand leads to tennis elbow. So I built the adapter and mount the sander to the spindle mount. I programmed a nice spiral path to go around the round table top at a very slow speed. The sander starts from the center, goes to the outside edge and then back to the center and retracts so I can change to the next grit. No dust shoe is probably going to work, so dust is something I have to deal with manually. This turns the machine into a Sandoko or CNSand.

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(Dan Nelson) #36

THIS is freaking brilliant!!! :+1::+1::+1::+1::+1::+1: out of a possible 5 :+1:

My wife absolutely loves to sand, she’s actually sanding right behind me as I type, but with this I could have two people sanding while I surf the web!

Dan

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(Jonathan K) #37

@koolatron I took it down because I needed to tune some details on it and I learned a bit along the way about how impellers work, and wanted to make an impeller version that would direct the air in a more concentrated stream at the tool.

The original press-fit design, while functional, had a fairly short overall life-span before it would eventually work loose and then fall down off the collet nut. I needed to make changes so it had some kind of proper no-load snap-engagement with the nut to ensure it was secure, and hadn’t gotten to designing that yet.

I’ll try to circle back to it in the next few weeks, and I can share the Fusion file if you DM me with your email (if you use Fusion360).

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(Martha) #38

Great idea! Can you post a pic of your set up?

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(rlicquey@gmail.com) #39

I assume you’re talking about the sander. If so, there’s really nothing to show in a pix. It’s in the prototype stage but basically it’s a piece of plastic plumbing pipe (pvc or one of the others) that is a loose fit in the spindle mount. That is afixed to the top of the sander with a bolt. I don’t tighten the pipe into the spindle mount because I want the sander to be able to float and use gravity to hold it down. As I work with it more, I’ll undoubtedly change the design and make it fancier.

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(Jonathan K) #40

You could start with a light spring-load & mount rather than only gravity-float :wink:

That’s what I’d do anyway if I were to build one for my machine… which I just might have to do since it’s a great idea. I’d want to use the thru-pad vacuum dust extraction at minimum that my Bosch sander has.

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(rlicquey@gmail.com) #41

I first addressed the issue of having to do a lot of sanding about a decade ago. I built a sanding machine from two windshield wiper motors, an arduino and some switches. The piece to be sanded sat on a turntable that was slowly rotated by one of the wiper motors. The second motor drove a threaded rod to which the sander was attached. The sander would travel from the outside edge to the center and then reverse direction while the piece it was sanding slowly turned beneath it. My sander was gravity-held then so while I contemplated doing something different with the S03, I decided that experience was telling me I could trust gravity. I’d love to see someone come up with a great design, though. As a side note, if you’re using the through-pad vacuum dust holes, check out the line of abrasives that are on a mesh backing. Mirka sells them, and I just bought some of another brand from Home Depot. They are more expensive, but they last longer, don’t seem to load up as quickly and appear to handle dust better. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/abranet-5-net-grip-disc-4 .

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(Jonathan K) #42

@Boothecus I use those sanding nets already, so I’m with you buddy on that! They’re great.

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#43

Whatever you do: don’t print in PLA and also be careful of your clamps when machining. I printed one of these ages ago for my shapeoko 3 (I have a 3 phase spindle with er11 collet) and it was great for aluminium when using a small bit to keep things cool and free from chips!

I made the mistake of using PLA however and after a few hours of use the collet fan spontaneously exploded during a job… Luckily I had a spare which also exploded as it grazed one of my clamps!

I have never been more glad to have nice Polycarb doors on my cnc enclosure, those bits of plastic shrapnel hit the doors with quite a lot of force!

the file I used: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2207950
Also, I have found that using a collet fan when cutting wood on the shapeoko ends up with chips blown all over the rails and I have had my z axis jam because of this mid job.

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(rlicquey@gmail.com) #44

I machined mine from HDPE and they have held up very well. I have had no problems with chips/dust in the S03 mechanics. Perhaps the design I used (originally a bitfan from othermachine) doesn’t blow as hard as other designs. I find the chips and all but the finest dust blow to the outside edges of the wasteboard.

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