PVC bit recommendation

[baaja (F B)]

I am working on a picture frame for my 10 year anniversary. I have tried carving it in plywood, but it is a little fuzzier than I would like. It is “good from far, but far from good”.

I’m considering purchasing this sheet of pvc from menards

However, I’ve seen a lot of threads about the pvc melting when cutting. Everything on the existing sign was done with a Harvey tools 90 degree 1/4 vee bit that has 4 flutes. It is phenomenal for wood, but I don’t think it is appropriate for this work.

So the questions are

1. Can pvc hold that kind of v-carve detail?
2. What vee bit should i purchase to do it? (I’ve seen this recommended)

[neilferreri (Neil Ferreri Ω)]

I’ve never had an issue using this vbit.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P4NSYG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_xmb0EbRP1D5FZ

And this one for really detailed stuff.

Amana Tool - 45771 Solid Carbide 30° Engraving 0.005 Tip Width x 1/4" Shank Sign...

PVC holds detail well.

[ColdCoffee (Robert)]

So here are my thoughts, first the long answer, then the short…

Don’t give up on wood, but maybe something this special needs harder/better wood. If you do go plastic, consider the two layer stuff like this. The 2nd layer being a different color would make the text pop without having to paint. But your color selection is limited.

Sometimes those tiny flaws are what makes a personal one-off thing special (hard advice for an engineer to hear). But here are some ideas I would try to improve the end result without loosing the charm.

First CNC step, surface the board. It appears some of the letters lost some detail as they were in low spots… but again, sometimes flaws like these make the result better.

After CNC, but before painting, use a brush. Nothing special, the brush I use I think came from a generic home car wash kit. Even a toothbrush works, just something to physically clear some of the fuzzy and it’s quick and easy.

I’ve had more luck (on stuff with this much detail) pre-staining the board before the Vcarve. So after surfacing the board flat, stain the entire board in a color with a lot of contrast to the original wood. Then when you Vcarve you leave something that is sharp (in color) without a lot of effort.

The other method I have used is to paint after CNC, then sand the (top of stock) surface. This is more effort, but still easy.

I’ve seen youtube videos where they paint a board, then apply a mask (layer) on top of the paint, then Vcarve (away both the mask and some wood), then repaint but this layer of paint should only fall into the unmasked/carved area. No personal experience, but I assume the key to success there is a really good masking material and a sharp bit.

I love the layout and design, and incorporating the song wave pattern is brilliant! But if you have audacity already installed, maybe reduce the volume so there is more of a variance between the highs and lows. And maybe give a (false) fade in to match the fade out so the result is more balanced.

However here’s my short answer, you already have a really nice and personal finished product. If it were “perfect” someone would think you bought it rather than made it.

[baaja (F B)]

Yes, in this case I spray painted the plywood, masked, carved, and spray painted again. I did notice the issues with the letters on the left being carved deeper.

This was a freshly surfaced wasteboard, so I’m thinking it was a function of not having a fastener in the middle of the plywood and it being slightly warped. I may change the depth on the pocket operation to identify them, then drop some screws in to ensure it is totally flat when doing the v-carve.

I hadn’t considered modifying the soundwave, that is a good tip. I’m going to have to download audacity and see what I can do there.

I’m going to buy the bit Neil suggested above and give that a try too. While perfection and done are enemies, I’m looking for a little more perfection on this if it is going to hang in my house for good.