Hello. New guy here and not quite sure where to post this but I’m having issues with my Shapeoko XXL not cutting files to size. I recalibrated the machine and each time I cut the same part, I get different variations in shapes and diameters. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Carbide Motion: Build 640
Which XXL? 3, 4, or Pro?
Are the belts in good condition? V wheels properly adjusted?
What material are you cutting? Using what tooling? What sort of toolpaths?
Photos of how the cut turned out and notes on how you are measuring?
Thanks for the quick response! I’m using a Shapeoko 3 XXL to cut plastic guitar pickguards, which are roughly 7" long and 4" wide. The sheets are .035" thick, and I’m using a #111 bit with contour cuts, offset to the right. Over the last few months, I’ve noticed inconsistencies in the shapes and radii of the pickguards. Generally speaking, when the cuts are off, the radii are generally too wide, the overall length is too short, and the width appears to be too wide. Sometimes, it cuts the files correctly, but then on the next run, they are off despite my numerous attempts at re-calibrating.
I’m verifying the dimensions with a PDF template that is to scale, printed from AutoCAD.
I purchased the machine in 2019 and have been using it consistently since then without changing the belts or V-wheels. The belts seem fine (to my untrained eye), but I’m not sure how to check the condition of the V-wheels. I’ll try to send some pictures for further clarity.
Your V-wheels are quite likely worn down somewhat & allowing extra play/slop in the movement. You can try to adjust the eccentric nuts to get the wheels to contact the rails properly again. Also be sure to check the tension of the belts.
It would be advisable to order a maintenance kit for SO3 to be able to replace the V-wheels & belts.
Please start with a Maintenance Kit.
that should allow rebuilding the machine to pretty much like new.
Thank you! I just ordered the maintenance kit and wanted to ask if there are any videos or detailed instructions available for installing all of the components.
It’s basically the same as assembly — that said, if one keeps track, one can do it on belt/wheel at a time — that said, I find some aspects of the machine easier to clean when disassembled.
Perhaps:
William & Joel - Thank you for all the help! I’ll keep you posted once I get the maintenance kit installed.
In the meantime, I’ve attached some pictures to illustrate what’s happening. As I mentioned earlier, I’m cutting with a #111 bit (for soft plastic), using contour cuts with the offset set to outside/right. In the photos, you’ll see a PDF template with a 1” x 1” box. You’ll also notice in the other three images that the pickguard’s radius is larger than the 5” diameter circle, the pointed tip is off (with a jagged cut), and the lower rounded bout is too short.
While waiting for the maintenance kit, I decided to investigate some potential issues:
After making these adjustments, I recut a few pickguards, but the results are still the same as before—no improvement despite squaring the machine, tightening the V-wheel, and flipping the Y belts. I found it a bit interesting that after all of this, I’m still getting the same results as I did initially.
Next things to look at would be play in the router holding & bearings & ensuring the bit is seated properly in the collet - do not push bits up into the collet until they contact the top as this will cause the bit to skew as the collet is tightened.
Also, speeds & feeds for plastic/acrylic are pretty critical as the bit can easily start melting instead of cutting which then gums things up & causes the end of the bit to skew around. This often results in breaking small-diameter bits off. O-flute bits are the general rule for cutting plastics along with higher feed rate & lower spindle rpm’s.
I’m curious as to why you’re using a ball cutter.
Another question I had is what you’re using to generate the G-code for your design? Carbide Create? Or other CAM?
Thanks Joel. I’ll check the router to see if the bit is seated properly in the collet.
I’ve not heard of an O-Flute bit, but I’ll definitely check it out. When I bought the kit back in 2019, the #111 seemed like the best option on the website for what I’m doing so I bought it then. I will say prior to about a month ago, it was cutting to scale with fairly clean edges, but I’ve not done much experimenting with feed rates and rpms. Just going with the pre-programmed settings.
I’m using AutoCAD to create the DXF files, then uploading to Carbide Create to make the G-code.
I know you swapped the belts around but if they are worn (stretch easier in one spot) you may have just swapped the error to the opposite end of the axis and it still exists.
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