Router collet extensions work? Feedback please?

Since the Z+ is about an inch higher, has anyone tried a collet extensions? Too much wobble possibly? Better to double up on the waste board?

1 Like

Its better to double the wasteboard. Extending the lever arm increases forces and leads to deflection issues as well as exacerbates run out.

I understand It’s annoying, I just upgraded to the Z+ and am working on the same.


Some people have reported reasonable success in work which isn’t sensitive to the increased runout.

Doubling up the wasteboard is better and more flexible — the three layer system works well and increases rigidity:

  • original MDF baseplate — spray with a sealant such as spar urethane or lacquer which has a couple of holes w/ threaded inserts for mounting
  • threaded insert board — with holes which match up with the threaded insert holes so as to mount it, and a extra threaded inserts for mounting a spoilboard
  • spoilboard as a top layer with holes to match up with the threaded inserts and for mounting

Amana makes a few you can find on I have had success running one but I never run it over about 10k rpm


Good ideas, thx!
How can I cut and align all the mounting holes, in all 3 layers of MDF accurately? Placing the touch probe in the lower left corner isn’t possible, bc the base board is too big, right?
Should I use a handheld drill?
What’s been a successful technique for you?

I would machine the threaded insert board first (place it on another board if need be), then use it as a template w/ transfer punches to mark the holes for the threaded inserts on the MDF baseplate EDIT: without moving it — do this will still clamped END EDIT, drill those, then install the threaded inserts from underneath.

Similarly, I’d use transfer punches to transfer the holes for securing the spoilboard to the threaded insert board and drill them by hand, secure it in place, then drill holes to access the threaded inserts as needed using the master file created for the threaded insert board.



I don’t see the need to align the mounting holes in the MDF.

My first layer is 16" x 32" with mounting holes hand drilled (countersunk) 1 ¼" from each corner edge. If you want you can add a pair of holes centered across the front and back and 1 ¼" from the edge.
The upper layer (it will have the holes for the T-Nuts on the underside) is 14.5" x 32". It is secured with mounting holes hand drilled (counterbored) 1/2" from each corner edge…

If you ever need to replace the upper layer use the counterbored holes as a template on the replacement MDF.

I used this template (Carbide Create file) from Myerswoodshop to drill the holes for T-Nuts. It is a free download here. Wasteboard T-Nut Template

When mounting the two pieces of MDF make sure to have them firmly against the front frame and centered across the width of the base.


Thank you for all the good ideas!

This topic was automatically closed 30 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.