Did you run a separate ground wire (which only carries current when there’s a ground fault) to the house panel (i.e. a fourth wire in 115VAC countries like the US)?
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beat me to it…wanted to ensure we’re conveying the science right. high RH = low static and vice versa.
Another agreement to the conductive tinsel. Working in blown film, static buildup over a moving web of film could generate millions of volts of potential on the web. draping tinsel was a lifesaver for keeping static down. The same concept in employed in dust collection systems using PVC pipe or other non-metallic pipe. They will actually make ducting and hose with copper wound in it for this exact reason.
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I am not clear on how to use the anti-static tinsel, where would you put it? Attached to the vacuum tube or on the frame? It looks like an industrial product, where can you buy some in more modest quantities?
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Yes, I did, that’s why I was thinking about just tapping into that from the panel - the panel is located by the end of that overhead rack that I store copper and other steel, there is also a grounding rod up there that I acquired some time ago, so a wire right from the box attached to that grounding rod should do the trick.
A wire connecting to the ground of an AC outlet box would also do the trick.
What I don’t like about grounding to a power box is that you are extending a wire (possibly non-insulated) outside the box that may come in contact with a conductor inside. Furthermore, any loose connection between the electrical box and the panel may break the ground.
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I’d be inclined to connect it through an unused AC receptacle via a connection to the “ground” of a mating plug - especially since some outlet boxes are now plastic.
The tinsel has a copper wire winding in the center.
Cut a length a foot or two long. The tensile needs to be grounded somewhere… exposed metal structure… a ground wire… even the closest machine that is grounded will work. Place the tensile where it can brush against whatever you want to pull static from. (in this case, a length of the PVC pipe.)
Mother Nature and ohm’s law do the rest.
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https://smile.amazon.com/RV2735-Rid-Volt-Titanium-Grounding-Probe/dp/B0002DGSWE/
these sell these kind of things even pre-made 
I guess its time to jump back into this thread, considering that I started it. Thanks to all who have replied, as it seems to have taken on a life of its own. Let’s see if I can recap and offered what I’ve learned:
The original question was, is it OK to have run the router power cord out through the drag chain. It seemed like such a simple solution to the cord having to move through the work area. Response was split into 2 categories. Yes and No. The “No” group believes that it’s possible for electro/magnet interference between the power cord and the twisted signal wires to corrupt the operation of the CNC, likely ruining your project. For now, because I’ve already put it into the drag chain, I’ll take my chances (I’ve already run a couple projects with no issues) and leave it alone. If an unexplained hiccup occurs, then I’ll take it out and run it to the ceiling. Of course, we all have the same exposure to a power flicker during bad weather unless you’ve installed a UPS on your CNC.
Some of you know a lot about electronic fields and magnetic fields on a scale larger than my little 120V/6.5A router. While I’m somewhat overwhelmed by the detail, I thank you for your input.
I have a 3HP, 220V dust collector for the other tools in my shop, where each of the 3 ports contains a twisted copper wire grounded between the dust collector and the tool it’s hooked up to. This is to eliminate any static electric “spark” that may ignite the dust being collected. I have not yet tried to solve the dust collection on the CNC. I’m still intrigued watching it run, wearing a dust mask/glasses and holding a shop vac, so that I can catch and stop the mistakes that I’ve made in the tool paths, usually on depth of cut or programming the wrong bit.
I did not know that your microwave and Bluetooth share the same radio frequency. I listen to music via a Bluetooth frequently in or near the kitchen. I’ve occasionally notice the speaker audio breaking up and always thought it was because I left the room with my phone, exceeding the 30ft Bluetooth distance limit. I’ll certainly test this when I return home Monday.
Finally, after reading about all the static sparks, and another thread about a router fire, I’m going to buy another fire extinguisher and strap it to the front leg of my CNC, just in case.
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Still a good idea to have a fire extinguisher handy… CNC is a good caveman style firestarter. Combined with a good dust collector as oxygen source…
After seeing a few videos I took an extinguisher down to the basement!
I’d recommend having the extinguisher a bit farther away along the entry/escape route… you dont want to be driven away from the machine (or maybe you went out of the room to grab your carbide3d-of-the-month-club delivery) and unable to reach your extinguisher.
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HAHAHAHA…
You just described my past nights since I got the damn thing… sitting on that chair, watching it cut and holding a shop vac tube close to the bit…set a tumbler of Captain Morgan within reach and that could be me.!!
100% correct and I stand corrected. Should’ve gone with “boat load” and left it at that. 
I am one of those guys also. Cross talk can occur not will always occur. I use shielded and properly grounded cabling so that may be why I am void of any errors. OH! I must admit I converted my S3 to a Gecko 540 controller so cross talk is far less of a problem with this unit, it’s known for solid performance.
The shield is grounded at one end only by the way and should always be used in such applications.
This makes sense for steppers and switches, but how do you handle this with a USB cable? Is the shield in shielded USB cables grounded at both ends?
When we lose connection, is that because of noise on the USB? I’ve seen unshielded stepper wires cause erratic motion, but never with my SO3. Any issues have been with the communication. I need a better understanding of EMI.
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Very good question. Quite simply using an un-shielded USB is asking for all manner of problems you get what you pay for in USB, also 10 feet is max distance I would use. As I said I am now using a Gecko 540 controller, it is parallel not USB. Even now I keep the spindle power wires away from the rest. It is power to power and data to data layout. The Gecko is very fault tolerant but the parallel cable does have its faults. I use the 540 because all of my 5 years of CNC files are set for Mach 3 and didn’t convert very well to the Carbide. It is my understanding that USB shielding is both ends, but the USB was designed from the start for it. Hope this helps.
OH and before I get called on the carpet for my change to the Gecko 540 there is nothing wrong with the S3 controller. I just have so much invested in Mach 3 and the 540 it is better for me. For those starting out as many who are on this forum are it is Carbide is a fantastic value. Mach 3 cost $150 and a Gecko 540 will run about $325 not every one can spring for that and a new S3 to.