Shapeoko/computer disconnect as soon as spindle is turned on

My question is do I run a hot and a neutral through it or two hots? I have a 220v vfd

Edit: I’m getting tired. Been a long day in the heat. I don’t have a neutral ran to my vfd. But I just want to make sure that I’m supposed to put two hot legs to the filter.

Aha,

I always have to think at least three times for US power, your 220V is two hot legs either side of ground if I’m thinking straight?

The filter doesn’t care whether a side is hot, neutral or anything else, the circuit inside is symmetric around ground. All it’s doing is using those series inductors to reduce the high frequency noise passthrough on each line and the capacitors between each leg and the capacitors between each leg and ground to clamp some of that noise.

So put both the power lines that go to the VFD through the filter, it’s rated for 250V and ground the shell with whatever ground goes out to the VFD (important that this is the same ground) and you should be good.

Anyone US spotted any bad Euro mistake?

You sound correct.

USA standard residential power is 220v single fave to each house.

Two hots get you 220(240v)
Hot an a neutral get you 110(120v)

To many people call it different voltages so that’s why I put both.

My big issue is that professionally I only deal with dc voltage I’m a Honda master tech. I deal with 5v single pole to 300 v 3 pole dc voltages.

Then I come home and I am perfectly capable of 110v wiring. And I start getting into 220v and listening to advise from people across the pond and I feel it is much easier to ask for clarification than it is to get the smoke back in the electronics.

300V DC is worth taking a few safety measures with …

Ehhh. We rarely hand it with it live. The only times we do is when replacing the batteries we have to take the junction boards off and swap them and when dish issues we have to run voltage checks.

It’s nearly impossible to do any of those issues with the damn rubber gloves they want us to use. I just use one hand at a time so it can only go through my hand. I know it doesn’t always work that way but it works to get me by.

Back on topic. The filter did not solve my
Issue. I’m going to look for the setting mentioned earlier. If that doesn’t do it I’m going to try another computer

do you use a self-powered usb hub?
(I mean one with a plug, not powered by the computer)

I always have one hand in a pocket and stay away from the panels when I’m in medium or high voltage rooms, it was drummed into me by older and wiser people who’d seen the accidents.

That’s disappointing.

The Shapeoko still works, moves reliably etc. on this computer without the spindle on?

Does the Shapeoko with spindle on work when driven from the laptop you tried previously?

No usb hub. Plus straight into motherboard usb of computer.

And as far as I know I can operate the shapeoko just fine from it. I haven’t had a single issue until I turn the spindle on.

I’ve found some discussions with people talking about feedback reaching the computer via the plug. So a laptop is isolated and won’t have that issue. I’m
Going to play with the laptop and see.

I do not have my work laptop here which is what I used to use before the desktop. I did have it operational with the desk top after the hdz upgrade and before the second spindle install.

I have my wife’s laptop which is identical to mine. I’m installing carbide motion on it now.

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And I’ve done 3x as much movement with the laptop as I’ve been able to do with the desktop. So I’m going to say the issue might be with my desk top I’m. Using.

Sounds like electrical interference making your disconnects but until I put a sticky back wire tie holder on my USB connection to the Shapeoko controller I got random disconnects. I recently upgraded to the BitRunner and had the option 2 which solders a connector on my controller. I started to buy the option 1 which gets a new controller. My USB connector moves around on the controller. It has good connections to the board but I think the grounding shield around the usb connector is flakey.

wire_tie_holder

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Well, that’s an improvement.

I have been digging into the grounding on the Shapeoko (and pestering Julien with questions) and so far as I can tell;

  1. The ground pin on the PSU comes through to the 0V on the controller which is bonded to the Y rail and therefore the main chassis of the Shapeoko, I have not been able to confirm this for a US model yet.
  2. The X rail is not grounded, it’s completely isolated by the V wheels
  3. The Z axis is not grounded, except when people ground the shell of the spindle / router they have mounted in it
  4. The USB controller in the Shapeoko appears to be an isolated USB which would reduce the risk of ground loops but… Isolated USB is still susceptible to high frequency noise causing data corruption. I spotted this when I couldn’t find ground on the USB shield.

So it could be an iffy USB in the PC, it could be a fun grounding issue causing the PC ground to be noisy vs. the Shapeoko or it could be noise injected to the PC via the mains power (this last one seems unlikely but is possible).

The laptop on battery, or “isolated” supply is immune to the two of these that aren’t iffy USB connector.

I’m going to call it for the night. I’ve got to be at work in 9 hours and need to eat still.

I’m going to try and a couple different plugs for the desk top and see if that helps I’ve got 3 separate circuits available within reach of the desktop where it sits. I’ve also got an inverter generator I can completely isolate it’s power with.

If I get any progress with that I will look into a battery backup to see if that isolates the computer enough. If not it may be time for me to buy a new tower. I can get 10x the power of this one for $250 anyway.

Well. I think I’ve completely ruled out ground loops or any kind of feed back through the power system. It still does it on my generator. I have a shielded usb cable coming on Thursday. If that doesn’t do it I may go buy a new computer because I don’t know what else it could be since it doesn’t do it with two laptops.

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Here is my only concern. I believe that I have isolated it do be a usb is sine with the computer.

My only question is why do I have to cut power to the shapeoko board in order to reconnect with it after the disconnect happens? Is this a protecting program?

Does restarting Carbide Motion on the host computer work?

What about plugging the USB into another computer after the disconnect, can the other machine talk to the Shapeoko?

It depends what’s going wrong with the USB signalling, it might be that the host computer is marking the USB device as failed and dropping all attempt at comms, you could check in settings / devices to see if the Shapeoko is still there after the disconnect.

Ok thanks for all the help. I’ll run through that stuff tonight when I get home.

Well I made it disconnect then unplugged the usb from the desktop computer and plugged it back in and could re connect.

So In my mind the computer tower is the cause of it all.

Really wanted to spend sometime messing with it tonight but the wife insisted I go out for beer and wings and who am I to say no…

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Did you ever get a chance to check that VFD setting?

I have the starting rpm at 10hz which is the highest it will let me set it. I also messed with the emi reduction setting and have it cranked up to 15 which is the highest.

10hz? That isn’t right.

You can set lower frequency limit all the way up to the highest frequency. Is that Pd011?

Is this your VFD? https://www.cnc4you.co.uk/resources/VFD%20CNC4YOU.pdf